The blue one is perfect however if I print the blue now it will have bad layers. everything is tight.
I dont know if it is the hotend or the extruder but it seems that it has to be one of those factors as I changed the heater block and drivegear and everything was hunky dory. I am more inclined to lean towards the extruder as the hotend operates in the correct temp zone etc
logged a ticket with e3d regarding the titan as it seems its either the hotend or the extruder. Mechanically I have checked everything and when I replaced the drivegear and heaterblock it worked fine then all of a sudden back to the issue a few days later
So I tried printing with less extrusion dropped the flow rate to 95% through the print and same artifacts occur
Ok not getting any feedback from e3d support. Could it be that I need to use a different stepper driver for my extruder?
I'm at a loss as to what else to suggest. It doesn't look consistent enough to be something like that, you've previously swapped the stepper and noticed no change. Do you have any photos of recent prints?
Will have to run a print tonight the pictures I had of things I printed recently dont really show the banding. Its pretty much still printing like the last green cube I posted.
Now this is interesting i measured the extruder filament width and its like .5 mm instead of .4 i will be running experiments with the nozzle diameter set to this
Looks like a Z bellows issue to me. I'm not sure your printer is running flexy bellows for the Z lead screw, But you will never get consistent layers whilst these are fitted. If you have access to a dial indicator and stand check for yourself. move the Z 10mm up / down and see if it returns to the same pos, do this at various spots over the whole Z travel. If you have fitted drylin style bearings on the Z and are also running bellows - this is bad. Go back to standard ball race bearings! Jump up and down next to the printer (if on floorboards) and see if there is any deviation on the dial. etc. tap the X and check the same. Bed springs? make stabilisers for them or just go solid and use shims. ideally to solve the issue - go solid couplers. Trouble is - you'll need very straight lead screws. Cheers Simon
My humble opinion only (the management may not agree; I could be wrong): Open up your Titan extruder and check the bearings that support the driven gear+hobb. Also, check the driven gear+hobb ends that insert into the bearings for heavy wear that could lead to wobble. I think it is possible to set the idler arm pressure (which pushes against the filament which then pushes against the gear+hobb) so high that failure of the bearings and/or deformation of the "tube" that inserts into them can occur over time.
What worked for me was to re tram the whole gantry. I found out that there were residual tensions in both x and y travels as well as between the bearings on the corners of the bed. I spent literally hours making sure that all axis were as tram and free to roll as possible and then moved on to more minor tweaks like material flow and print speed. Also check that the printer sits on a FLAT surface and that all feet are touching the table evenly. The frame will bend with its own weight enough to cause issues if not planted firmly on all feet.