Big Box Dual

Discussion in 'Build Help' started by University of Toronto, Sep 24, 2016.

  1. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    Hi Sarah,

    Oh! this makes sense! I complete got it messed up. Thanks. I will try to flip it around then.

    For removing it, as you can see, the biger thermo couple comes of quite easily, but the smaller blue wire doesnt budge even after completely unscrewing the grub. Any suggestion on this? I dont have to completely dismantle the entire extruder correct, because that would be a disaster!.

    Thanks

    Best Regards
     
  2. Sarah Nicholson

    Sarah Nicholson Well-Known Member

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    You should be able to leave it as is, it might come out the back instead of the front but I don't think that matters too much as long as you can route the wires tidily. The PT100 wires seem quite fragile and prone to breaking so it's probably safer to leave it alone.
     
  3. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    Hi Sarah, I would love to do this, but I cant attach the fan properly on top, because the screw is pressing against the blue cover. Also, during the extrusion process, I am assuming the screw is also going to get very hot, and it might melt the blue cover if it is in contact.

    Apart from this, the major problem is that the 2 extruders are not leveled, that is why i have to go through all this procedure to fix this issue :(
     
  4. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    When I was printing my first print (the pre installed boat CAD file), and the x carriage moves back to clean the nozzle, the stepper motor on top for my right extruder seems to be hitting the black frame on top? This looks seriously wrong

    Could anyone help me with this?

    Thanks
     
  5. A Dragon In A Pie Costume

    A Dragon In A Pie Costume Well-Known Member

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    is it from the dual folder? if so co to /dual/calibration/ and select the one with the 1 in its name(cant recall rn) Or create a folder called select and in it have 2 files, T0.gcode and T1.gcode
    T0.gcode:
    T0
    M117 selected nozzle 1!

    T1.gcode:
    T1
    M117 selected nozzle 2!

    the issue is the gcode thinks you have t1 selected so it adjusts it's location
     
  6. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    Hi,

    Unfortunately, I think there is something wrong with my heating. when I heat nozzle 2, my right nozzle is heating, and when I heat my right nozzle. However, the extruder motors seem to be working perfectly. I tried switching the heating cable, and it completely messes up which nozzle heats what. Any help would greatly be appreciated :)

    Thanks
     
  7. Patrick Notton

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    Quickest check here would be to disconnect the heaters from the board HE0 and HE1.

    Only connect 1 set to HE0 and check to see which one heats when you Heat nozzle 1. (of course do make sure that you aren't mixing up the wires for the sets. if not you might have to back trace a bit to double check which is which).
    From there you should be able to either reconnect HE1 or you might have to move the connection over.

    Just kinda sounds like you got the wires swapped. I'm not very familiar with the Hybrid Titan set up so I don't know which side is associated with which heater terminal block on the board.
     
    cez likes this.
  8. vvyy

    vvyy Member

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    Hi,

    Can you help with the following issues for the hybrid dual titan 3d printer please?

    1. During the printing for the 3D brenchy, the extruder is hitting the back frame when it starts from the collection bin position. I am not sure if is the gcode issues or the assembly connection issues.

    2. For the gcode of the calibration for T0, it would hit the back frame but the for the T1 it would not hit anything. Not sure if the extruders are connected wrong, as the T0 calibrates the left extruder and the T1 calibrates the right extruder. Also, are both extruders' temperatures have to be above 210 degree C to be able to run the calibration? (i.e temperature for both extruders to be above 210 degree C to run either one calibration?)

    3. I am trying to swap the nozzle to larger diameters, is there any standard length for the nozzle? It seems like the order I have are longer in length.


    Thanks a lot.
     
  9. vvyy

    vvyy Member

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    Hi,

    Do we have access to the simplify3D for the gcode? Does it come along with the bigbox 3d printer? How do we get access?

    Thanks
     
  10. pSimon

    pSimon Member

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    Don't know if you have an answer yet, but S3D is dowloaded from https://www.simplify3d.com/

    You need a code from e3d if you bought it from them, as I recall.
     
  11. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    It's a pay-for product and can be supplied by E3D.
     
  12. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    Hi,

    To be honest I am a beginner. since I have gotten the Bigbox dual, I am not able to get one print right (except the 3d benchy :)). i am using the simplify 3d, but I still am facing major issues. Here is the list of problems I am experiencing. i hope someone can help me as I have been stuck in this position for a month now:

    1. The filament always gets stuck inside the nozzle setup. Initially i didn't have the PTFE tube inside in the nozzle setup, but when i had it, it is not even going through anymore. Also, it seems that due to this reason, the filament is getting chipped off by the extruder gear pushing in the filament, and it is making some weird clicking sounds.

    2. It is extremely scary. After I level my plate, and go for the calibration (dual- extruder 1.gcode), the extruder goes and hits the back frame? Why does it do this!? this has happened several times. Could someone let me know a good permanent solution for this? I have to abruptly shut off the equipment each time. i feel this is a serious Issue.

    These are the two major problems i am facing now, and would greatly appreciate any help with this!

    Thank you
     
  13. Tom De Bie

    Tom De Bie Well-Known Member

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    This is my opinion/thought on your first problem. Note that I primarily use ABS so... ;)
    I think you have a clog somewhere...To resolve that you can try one of the following things:

    - Do a cold pull...
    Heat up your hotend to the required temperature for your filament (ABS 230°C; PLA 190°C; and so on). Once that temp is reached push the filament so you have good contact and turn the temperature down again to (for ABS 140-160°C and PLA 80-100°C). When the hotend has reached that temperature remove the filament from the hotend by pulling on it slowly but with a constant pulling force, so don't try to pull harder if it won't budge. It will pull out. After you pulled it out you should see that the end of the filament has a pointy tip with lots of discoloring on it. Cut of the end part of the filament and repeat until the pointy part of the filament doesn't have any discoloring on it. Hopefully you have removed the blockage this way. If not, or you didn't end up with a pointy discolored tip in the first try follow on to the next point...
    The picture below isn't mine but found on the site of bukobot
    [​IMG]

    - Unmount the hotend and clean the parts. If using ABS, use some nail polish remover to soak the metal parts for a couple of hours or even a couple of days. Then use some small sharp items (like a guitar string. Don't use those fine drill-bits they sell on ebay for print nozzles, they damage your nozzle) to remove the plastic from those parts. I also use a bottle of compressed air and put the small tube on the nozzle tip and squirt some air through the tip. If you hold the tip in front of a light you should be able to see through the nozzle hole. After this try the first point again...

    If the above steps didn't work for you the only thing you can do is buy another nozzle. I always have a couple lying around just in case. The clogged ones I put in a capped plastic container (suited for nail polish remover). Everyday I shake the container and after a couple of days I see lots of dirty little part of ABS on the bottom of the container.

    Assemble the hotend as described in the wiki from e3d
     
  14. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    HI Tom,

    Thank you very much for this information. I just recently bought the big box dual, and have not used it much at all. I will try the above method, but I have a question, my filament is not going inside at all. Its hitting the wall of the (screw like thing that connects the block to the heat sink, and is unable to pass through. I completely took it apart and made sure its clean, so it has to be this screw like thing's wall. So, I reallized I didnt have the PTFE tube guide inside, I put it inside, but yet the same issue. Pease find below the image of the PTfe tube Guide I am taking about:
    upload_2016-10-26_8-59-5.png

    Also, I think the measurement is wrong, based on the cartoon drawing isnt it? Shouldnt it be measured from top of the other part?

    Thank you soo much Tom for your kind assistance in trying to help me!
     
  15. Tom De Bie

    Tom De Bie Well-Known Member

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    Ah...ok. Based on this new information I would say press the PTFE tube in until it reaches the end of the guide (little white or black piece which sits right under the hobbed gear). When inserting the filament I always straighten it as it comes curled of the spool. This way it goes through straight ;)
     
  16. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    Hi Tom,

    Thank you for the information. I pushed it completely until reached the end of the guide, but i still feel when I push the filament in, it is going and hitting against something. I still feel it might be that screw's that connects the heat block to the heat sink inner wall. Still no luck :(

    Thanks
     
  17. Tom De Bie

    Tom De Bie Well-Known Member

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    then dismount the entire hotend and look for blockages. To know approximately where the blockage is insert the filament until it won't go further and then grab the filament where it sticks out. Pull the filament out and hold it in front of the entire unit. The bottom of the filament would be where the blockage is...
     
  18. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    I chamfer the ID of the top of the PTFE inside the Titan. This, I feel, helps lead filament in. If you do that, you might want to manually just push some filament in and out of the PTFE just to make sure it's not jamming due to some deformation or damage of the PTFE during installation.
     
  19. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    Hello,

    I am having some issue with printing properly with/without raft using simplify 3d default settings. When I include the raft in the default setting of the simplify 3d software for PLA, it prints very nicely, however, if we print it without the raft, it barely extrudes anything out of the nozzle. I really dont want to play with the extrusion multiplier, as last time, it keeps on shaving the filament at the extruder, and eventually clogs up the filament inside (the default setting with raft are perfect). We deduced that it is the problem when we do not include the raft, it does not print at all. Could someone please help us with this problem?

    Thanks

    Best Regards

    Ali Anwer
     
  20. A Dragon In A Pie Costume

    A Dragon In A Pie Costume Well-Known Member

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    sounds like your nozzle is right against the bed, try adjusting the IR sensor and lowering it slightly
     

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