Cyclops jamming after print in heat breaks

Discussion in 'Multi-Extrusion' started by SpeedyDad, Jul 16, 2016.

  1. SpeedyDad

    SpeedyDad Member

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    I'm having an odd issue. I can get the Cyclops to print but when the print is done, it clogs in the top of the heat breaks just below the PTFE tubing. I end up having to take it apart and clean out the solidified filament. The jam i usually only 1 or 2 mm thick. It does not fill the heat break.

    I'm printing on an aluminum extrusion UM2 clone with my own Cyclops mount.
    I have the machine set to 1mm for the regular retraction and 1.5mm tool change retraction so I don't think I am over-retracting it. I have tried with both 30mm and 40mm cold side fans. The mount for the 40mm fan even is more open at the bottom to provide greater cooling down low on the heatsink to provide better cooling where the heat breaks insert. I have drilled the heater block to accept a PT100 sensor to get more precise temp readings.

    It happens when printing any type of filament. When printing, I'm getting a lot of stringing. I'd love to reduce that but I think the jamming issue would get worse.

    Ideas? Thanks.
     
    #1 SpeedyDad, Jul 16, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2016
  2. SpeedyDad

    SpeedyDad Member

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    Anyone from E3D read this? Help?
     
  3. hammy

    hammy Well-Known Member

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    I don't remember where but I believe someone already posted about this in Multi-extrusion
     
  4. KenNg

    KenNg Member

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    the cyclops is a horrible hotend to work with
     
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  5. eric bryant

    eric bryant New Member

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    i realize this is an old post, but did anyone have any luck with this. I got my cyclops and i have the exact same issue. after getting stuck and rebuilding 3 times i'm so fed up. I can stick to one nozzle and print with that but its super oozey, even turning the temp down.
     
  6. Antoine

    Antoine Well-Known Member
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    Make sure your retractions are as minimal as possible. because of the fairly large melt volume inside the heater block, the plastic can jam easily as it is pulled back hot inside the breaks. 1.5mm would probably be on the higher end in terms of retraction.
     
  7. Dave Kester

    Dave Kester New Member

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    What is the recommended retraction settings? 1.5mm being a max what is the guidance using PLA temp set to 200c?) I'm getting a jam on every test print. Seems to match the same patterns as others have noted.
     
  8. Antoine

    Antoine Well-Known Member
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    The recommended retraction setting it probably 0.2-0.5mm. That's what I run on Cyclops +. Cyclops will ooze a bit due to the long melt zone, but this also increases heat-creep up the heatbreak, hence why you get more jams. Make sure to adjust the retraction on both sides, as otherwise you will still see jamming on the side you forgot to update. This has happened to me a few times ; )
     
  9. Paco

    Paco New Member

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    It often happens to me when I try to pull from it slowly, all I have to do is apply the heating temperature of the filament I am working, extrude 20mm or so and then retract all ( at least 70mm?) very fast, 60mm/s works for me.

    I have to do that all the time otherwise there is no way to change filament
     
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  10. Michael Shore

    Michael Shore New Member

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    I wish I had read a lot ore about this hotend, it was an impulse buy, I thought what is going to be wrong with an E3D hotend.


    Well, Normally I can dial in a hotend and slicer within 2 or 3 prints, but I cant stop the stringing and oozing.


    But not this one, its on the shelf after a long day messing with it, I have some other stuff that is pressing so, the Hemera is back on and working flawlessly.
     

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