E3D V6 Lite taking forever to heat up (20 Minutes +)

Discussion in 'E3D-v6 and Lite6' started by UltiFix, Nov 30, 2016.

  1. UltiFix

    UltiFix Member

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    I looked around online and on the E3D troubleshooting page for this problem and found nothing...

    Printer: Prusa I3 Folgertech 2020 - Just upgraded from stock hotend and extruder to E3D Titan and E3D V6 Lite.

    Here is my configuration... Tried autotune. Failed for timeout... Descreased target temp to 150c from 200c and it completed. Tried those PIDS (Which is what is in the configuratino.h thats attached) no dice.

    Is there anything else I need to configure? Hotend polarity doesnt matter correct?

    Trying to heat hotend to 245c and its stuck at 187.9
     

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  2. dc42

    dc42 Well-Known Member

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    Could it be that you are using 12V power but your hot end has a 24V cartridge? Measure its resistance to check it. Should be around 3 or 4 ohms if it is 12V, and 12 to 16 ohms if it is 24V.

    The other possibility is that you have.a low maximum PWM set in your firmware configuration. I don't do Marlin so I'll leave that for someone else to check.
     
  3. Greg_The_Maker

    Greg_The_Maker Administrator
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    Can you post a photograph of the hotend please, making sure we can clearly see the heater block and heatsink. Thanks :)
     
  4. Tom De Bie

    Tom De Bie Well-Known Member

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    It's probably a 24V cartridge, but it could also be that you didn't do a PID autotune after installing the new hotend.
    Since the Prusa I3 Folgertech 2020 has a 12V PSU the PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE in the configuration.h file is configured the right way and the low PWM value as mentioned above isn't an issue...
    As Greg asked post a detailed picture of the hotend from several sides.
    Also if you have a multi-meter measure the resistance of the hotend cartridge.

    According to Ohms Law (V = I * R -> Volts = Amps * Ohms & W = I * V -> Watts = Amps * Volts) you should get one of the values below

    24V 40W = 14,4 ohm
    24V 30W = 19.2 ohm
    12V 40W = 9 ohm
    12V 30W = 4.8 ohm
     
  5. elmoret

    elmoret Administrator

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    This is either a 24v cartridge on 12v, or a heatsink touching the heater block I'd guess.
     
  6. UltiFix

    UltiFix Member

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    I ordered 12v (Just double checked) but I measured the resistance and I have a 24v cartridge? Thanks filastruder. :mad:
    Yea, but im pretty sure its because of the wrong cartridge. Filastruder sent me the wrong one.
    Yup it is.
    24v Cartridge.


    Thanks everyone! Filastruder is to blame... Not e3d! The resistance was actually 18.5 just took the pic to soon.
     

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  7. elmoret

    elmoret Administrator

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    Sorry about that, we'll have the proper parts in tomorrow's mail for you - replied to your email just now.

    It is always a good idea to check the resistance of the heater cartridge upon receipt, as mentioned in the assembly instructions. The wattage/voltage is also engraved on the heater itself, but a check with a multimeter is best.
     
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  8. UltiFix

    UltiFix Member

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    Thanks! The fan seems very noisy at 12v and it has the red on the part attaching it to the heat coil... So im assuming thats right? How would I check its voltage?
     
  9. elmoret

    elmoret Administrator

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    The red fan duct just indicates it is a Lite6 hotend.

    The fan has a label on it. The label should be towards the heatsink, you can pull the fan duct off to check. The fan is fairly noisy unfortunately, small fans have to spin at high RPM to produce airflow.
     
  10. UltiFix

    UltiFix Member

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    Yup, its the correct voltage.
     
  11. elmoret

    elmoret Administrator

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    That's good. New heater will be in tomorrow's mail.
     
  12. UltiFix

    UltiFix Member

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    Part received today, thanks!
     

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