EphBox Teaser

Discussion in 'Show off' started by Ephemeris, May 16, 2017.

  1. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

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    My long journey of tweaking the frame design is coming to an end.

    IMG_1935.JPG

    The BigBox was designed for us to put it together, but in living with it for a year I realized that working on it was sometimes an exercise in frustration. Some components could only be adjusted or replaced by copious cursing, scuffing of knuckles, or strategic application of chicken blood ;)

    Long story short, I don't want to ever again have to take apart any part of the frame for maintenance unless I am replacing part of the frame. I've gone through all of the DXF files and I think I've largely accomplished that. It's also much, much stiffer.

    I'll give a detailed description after I've lived with it for a few weeks.
     
    R Design, W1EBR.Gene and potti5 like this.
  2. A Dragon In A Pie Costume

    A Dragon In A Pie Costume Well-Known Member

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    but you had issues with the panels and had ones like mine :p

    good idea with the side panels, even tho i had no issues with the slits there currently lol
     
  3. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

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    Here's the new Z-platform. I just now got time to install it.

    IMG_1958.JPG

    Note the laser cut spacers are eliminated as are the printed parts next to the leadscrew nuts, and the laser cut leveling ziggurats. Speaking of leveling, here is one of the new heated bed levelers.

    IMG_1951.JPG

    The important thing is you can now adjust the bed height at each corner one-handed using just a hex key. More details later.
     
  4. gonzalo

    gonzalo Well-Known Member

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    Waiting anxiously on the details!
     
  5. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

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    Nice! Been thinking of having a locknut in the leveling screws.
     
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  6. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

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    Another view of what I've done. Here's one of the new and ever so sturdy Y-idlers designed in parallel with my frame changes

    IMG_1969.JPG

    In addition to holding the idler pulley more rigidly, this let's you move the idlers forward about 15 mm. Shown here, I've moved them about 10 mm from the usual position. This means I can now scan the front edge of the bed during mesh leveling!

    This change in geometry made the original Y-endstop screw mount untenable, so it's now an integral part of the right Y-idler. Here's a picture of the complete set of Y-idler parts. Note all the square nuts are in nut traps to make it easier to assemble and harder to lose parts.

    IMG_1923.JPG

    The bracket mounting holes are now much farther apart, because the lower mounting screws are no longer coaxial with the Y-rods. Instead there is hole that goes all the way through the bracket so the rods can be pulled out through the front panel. No more frame disassembly when you need to work on the Y- carriages, or replace a Y bearing!

    Here's a picture showing the new mounting layout and the 10 mm holes through the front panel for removing and installing the Y-rods.


    IMG_1971.JPG

    You can't tell from looking at the picture, but the new Front panel corrects an error in the idler mounting holes. In my original frame, and in the original DXF file, the upper M4 mounting hole for the right idler bracket was about a mm too high. You can see it on your frame by comparing the height of the top mounting screw for the right and left sides. If they're not the same, they're like mine were. This knocks the X-Y rod system slightly out of plane. Not a huge effect, just another small source of error.

    So many changes to explain! More later :)
     
    #6 Ephemeris, May 30, 2017
    Last edited: May 31, 2017
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  7. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    A millimetre?

    Holy cow!!!
     
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  8. gonzalo

    gonzalo Well-Known Member

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    IMG_8480.JPG I don't want to mess your post here but I just added the lock nuts to level the bed... works like a charm! Thank you for posting the idea!!!
     
  9. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

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    Glad you like it :) The beauty of the idea is you tighten the screw to the nyloc nut until you get enough friction that the screw won't rotate on its own. Then when you adjust the height by turning the screw, the nyloc grips the screw tightly enough that they rotate as unit. Voila! no more two handed adjustments where you need a open end wrench on the standoff and a hex key in the screw.

    By the way, what I did is a slightly more paranoid as you can see in the sketch below.

    Eph Heated Bed Leveler v01.png
    The two layers of washers at the PCB serve two functions. They reduce friction to minimize bed scraping and the PEEK washers help minimize heat transfer to the leveling screw. I did this because the nyloc nuts I have are only rated for about 105 celsius and I didn't want their friction part going soft on me. Likewise the use of stainless steel screws reduces heat conduction compared to standard steel ones.
     
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  10. gonzalo

    gonzalo Well-Known Member

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    The only thing that is not tight in your idea is that there is play in the hole of the heatbed where the M3 bolt goes in. At the same time, you can not tighten the locknut because that would bind the whole thing and would defeat the purpose of the mod. o_O
     
  11. gonzalo

    gonzalo Well-Known Member

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    A counter sunk head on those bolts and no washers on the top side should fix that.
     

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