How Boned am I? (Jammed/damaged E3D V6)

Discussion in 'E3D-v6 and Lite6' started by EpicFail, Jul 16, 2017 at 3:21 AM.

  1. EpicFail

    EpicFail Active Member

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    So, Story time.

    I own a now defunct e3d-BigBox, and after deciding to re-tram the x/y axis, I tore appart the V6 to do the block and sock upgrade, no big deal right?

    Well, I didnt tighten it up enough and wouldnt you know, the whole thing leaked PLA like a fresh baked lava cake made of bronze and plastic..

    No big deal I think to myself.. heating it up to take it appart...

    But, that's where I realize, its already cooked into every thread and nook and cranny of this thing. It spilled into the heater and sensor channels as well.. Even warm it wasn't letting things go. I had to pry the open end of the heater block to try and relieve pressure on the heater core... After heat-gunning and scrubbing things down as much as I could the surface is dull, but clean of most pla.. the innards however... I cant seem to get this stuff out of it.. I mean, it was already hard enough trying to get it off the surface!

    I can BARELY get things to push back together, and now I'm having to work the threading of the nozzle wile hot to see if I can push the fairly cooked pla out of the block.. and its not going great...

    So... just.. how hosed is this thing from this description?

    Any tips?
     
  2. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Suspect someone is going to recommend a blowtorch to just vaporise everything that shouldn't be there.
     
  3. Kanedias

    Kanedias Well-Known Member

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    It can be done but it's a matter of effort:reward compared to replacing it.
     
  4. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like a "buy some new parts" job, but for metal parts maybe something will dissolve or at least soften the plastic, like acetone, a 5L bottle is quite cheap and Amazon deliver. May take a while to soak it.
     
    #4 Old_Tafr, Jul 17, 2017 at 9:31 AM
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2017 at 1:17 PM
  5. Antoine

    Antoine Active Member
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    Of course, working for E3D, I'd recommend buying a replacement block. Saves you spending time, effort and acetone trying to clean an old block, and you don't really want to heat up a block with plastic stuck in it. Once you fit it with the sock, you shouldn't have this issue as often. If you want an even blingier block, the nickel plated copper blocks don't tend to have plastic stick to them as easily as the standard heater blocks, and they look really shiny. You can put a sock on top of it if you want double protection and better heat insulation, but we don't always run them with socks here.
     
  6. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

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    Would be interesting to know if acetone works. But never heard of the nickel plated copper blocks......... link would be handy !
     
  7. Antoine

    Antoine Active Member
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  8. EpicFail

    EpicFail Active Member

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    Thanks for the suggestions everybody.

    I had already ordered some metal parts through a legitimatize 'local' re-seller, picked up that interesting copper block with nickle plating.. praying that doesn't just fall appart from heat and oxidation.. But, should be interesting..

    Managed to get it working again, but I worry if the censor could be damaged and fail later, and the one that came with the sock and block doesnt work... so that's fun.

    Meanwhile the metal bits, yeah, I bought a butane torch and went to work on it with a brass brush, cleaned up ok, but the surface finish isnt what it use to be :( Guess that doesnt matter with a silicone sock over it though.

    Thanks again.
     

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