I can't find the bed in the shop anymore. The link in the first post doesn't work. Does clever3D still sell these? What did it cost?
I updated the link on the top post. I got a couple made two months ago so I assume they are available. Here's the corrected link: https://clever3d.de/epages/7a4290fc...6cc-9b99-eadef22228e2/Products/c3d-DDP-PEI-sw For the BigBox sure you order the BigBox one with the 'clip fix'
I'm sorry I completely missed the dropdown menu. € 75 for the BigBos clipfix version, man that's steep. But considering the great experiences here I'm guessing it's justified?
Ermmmm. Can't imagine life without it really. Zero surface prep for prints. If mine somehow snapped I'd have to have another. So far all the things I've tried to print have been fine. PLA, PETG, ABS, Flexibles.
My personal opinion is that its worth the money, and having used one for a while, I really don't want to go back to glass. Next will be to upgrade my prusa i3 clone with one.
I having been playing with this for a week or so now and EDGE and PLA are perfect. Spoolworks PLA I have gone as low as 190c hotend with a 70c bed (using a thermal imaging camera the bed is actually 65c). Orange sticks better than blue for some reason Edge 230c hotend with 100c bed dropping to 90c at layer 3. Now, what about PolyCarbonate? I am pretty scared to try. Its only occasionally i need to use PC such as Radiator TRV spare part or very rigid Cooling fan ducts... Is PC a "no way"? What about Nylon? Anyone tried Scaffold or PVA yet?
Supposedly polycarbonate works on PEI sheets so you would think it would work. I suggest starting with a low temperature and if if it doesn't stick, restart 5C higher and repeat until layer 1 lays down correctly. I trust you've got ventilation if you're doing polycarbonate.
Well i have a window and i leave the room i have only done that once mind. Looking for a ventalation solution berfore i try again. Real Filament black petg: 240c and 110 bed dropping back to 100c after a few layers.
Got my Clever3d.de bed a week ago and have been running it through various materials. I can say I am 100% pleased with the results. It takes a fair bit longer to get a print started and to wait for it to be ready to remove-but the true-ness of the bed and reliability make it worth every penny. Its a bit of a BMW price tag for a US based driver-but if you have room in your budget, this is the one. ABS 130C initially, dropping to 125C after first layer PLA great results at 65C
Wow. 130C ... haven't tried pushing it up there. I've been working with 110 for layer 1 then down to 105 for subsequent layers. I can imagine hitting 130 takes quite some time.
@Spoon Unit , aye, it does take a fair bit of time. I've only tried ABS a few times and went with the cleaver3d.de recommendations so far for ABS. I am going to test a bit and see if I can lower the temps and keep the parts on reliably. It takes about 15 minutes to heat the bed to that and I give it another 10 or so to stabilize across the plate. The IR gun I picked up a few years ago helps out a bit.
I did some ABS prints on my UM2 with the silver PEI plate last week for the new fan ducts and 110° worke pretty fine...
I know this is not the right place so forgive me, the Aluminium bed takes a lot longer to get up to heat yet the thermistor states that it has reached temp (when it has not really). I am having to turn the bed on for 5 mins then look to start a print instead of hitting print and waiting for it to start once bed and hot end is up to speed... Is this what others are doing or is there an more elegant way to read the true temp of the bed rather than what the heater temp is or the bottom of the aluminium? Again sorry to hijack
AndyVirus Hardly a hijack, that's definitely a settings issue. I just give it a few minutes to even out. Doesn't matter much on lower temperature materials, but if the bed needs to be above 110C I definitely give it at least three extra minutes, five to ten if I'm feeling patient.
Much the same here - seems to be the general approach. I wonder if it would be useful to have something like maybe an IR temp probe hooked in for a true reading and how to set that up - another project to think about when I find some time maybe
Also I can not get Polycarbonate to stick for any useful period to the Clever3D bed. I have taken the bed all the way up to 142c and Nozzle for first layer all the way up to 319c and while if i don't squish the first layer it does stick, it comes away fully with the slightest knock. If i squish the first layer it curls up behind the nozzle and lifts from the bed. I will give up with that one for now I think.
Hmmm I have no such issues since I use the PCB lifter I designed to push the PCB a little against the plate. Reading the surface temp with an IR, I know they are not so accurate, the temp seems to be around the temp of the thermistor reading. I had such issues before because of the air gap between PCB and the plate so...
There is a pause Gcode command too to wait a certain amount of time. You can put that after you heated your bed and the thermistor says you are there to wait an additional amount of time... That way you can start and go again if you like to... http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G4:_Dwell