IN DEVELOPMENT SETTINGS Clever3D PEI coated aluminum bed

Discussion in 'Guides, Mods, and Upgrades' started by Ephemeris, Jun 20, 2016.

  1. AndyVirus

    AndyVirus Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2016
    Messages:
    169
    Likes Received:
    32
    Oooh! I just put the PCB lifter back (well 1.5 of them stacked as i had to raise the bed up so i could use volcano with Aero) and you know what, that has defiantly made a huge difference. Just started a print from cold and adhered to the bed as i would expect it to if it was at the correct temp (after waiting). Thanks! Great tip!
    IMG_1623.JPG
     
    #61 AndyVirus, Jun 11, 2017
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2017
  2. AndyVirus

    AndyVirus Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2016
    Messages:
    169
    Likes Received:
    32
    Loving Colourfabb (Colorfabb) HT. sticks great and releases with ease.

    Anyone got Scaffold to stick to this bed?
     
  3. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    2,381
    Likes Received:
    715
    I had no problems getting Scaffold to stick when printing Edge or XT, temp was at 80°...
     
  4. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2015
    Messages:
    909
    Likes Received:
    181
    Here's a question about something I haven't quite figured out.

    The very first track (usually a skirt offset from the part) never sticks immediately and so there's about 1-2cm of loose filament at the start of the first track. Usually this doesn't matter (the skirt will be thrown away anyway) but occasionally it then gets caught up in what happens next and causes problems.

    I usually print nGen at 0.2mm layer height on the first layer and in every other respect it works perfectly.

    The start script in the dock uses the standard BigBox pre-extrude.

    The Z height is (I think) perfectly adjusted and the bed temperature at the high end of the recommended (85C).

    What can I tweak?
     
  5. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2015
    Messages:
    279
    Likes Received:
    176
    For nGen I have the bed set to 102C for layer 1.
     
  6. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2015
    Messages:
    1,039
    Likes Received:
    297
    @R Design I've stopped with using a full skirt, as sometimes it's really huge and makes no sense, unless you're really using it to pin something to the bed. Instead, I have a small 22cm square, corner-rounded- single layer model, that I use to get the extruder primer, babystepping sorted, and I typically I put this at a part on the bed where no actual print model will go. I also move it so it's close to the model. Anyway, this usually makes sure any issue with that first layer don't impact the main model.
     
  7. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2015
    Messages:
    561
    Likes Received:
    89
    I have been printing successfully 1 layer with HTPLA v3 a while now. 60 deg on bed and 250 in nozzle.

    I struggled in the beginning and got up to 85 deg on bed but it only got worse. Sent Proto Pasta a message and they suggested to go down to 60 as 85 might start to crystallise. They were right :)
     
  8. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2015
    Messages:
    909
    Likes Received:
    181
    Thanks guys for your great suggestions.

    Decided to take them in order and with the bed at 102C (@Ephemeris I'd NEVER have thought to go above 100! :D ) the first layer went down better than ever before. Am expecting the underside to be like a mirror.

    @Spoon Unit a tiny primer model is an interesting idea. Am always suspicious that the dock extrusion is insufficient. Either way do always use a skirt: either an offset one - essentially for priming purposes but very rarely there's a problem of model interference - or a one that is attached to the part in the case I think that there's the possibility of detaching or am super-preoccupied about dimensionality (eg right now am printing something like a cylindrical hinge, orientated vertically).

    @Stian Indal Haugseth in the USA you could sue for putting HT in the title when it's only a 60C bed!
     
  9. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2015
    Messages:
    909
    Likes Received:
    181
    As an aside, just set up a sequential (complete one part before printing the next) process in Simplify3D and discovered that, whilst at the beginning of the print it does an M140, M190 (set bed temperature, wait for it to be achieved), for subsequent parts it only does an M140 which means that the first layer only setting of 102C will never be in place when the plastic is laid down.

    Have submitted a bug report.
     
  10. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2015
    Messages:
    561
    Likes Received:
    89
    ?

    The bed reaches more than 60C but max recommended bed temp for HTPLA v3 is 70C. It can be printed at 250C for very good layer bonding. HTPLA can be baked to withstand higher temperatures.
     
  11. Falc.be

    Falc.be Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    227
    Likes Received:
    36
    Interested in this
    Does the pei degrade after time ?
     
  12. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2015
    Messages:
    909
    Likes Received:
    181
    I dunno. But if it died tomorrow (when I've finished this print!) it would have been worth it.

    Just to have known what 3d printing can be.
     
    Spoon Unit likes this.

Share This Page