Titan / Boden Edge retraction settings for bridging?

Discussion in 'Filament' started by gearmesh, Jul 15, 2016.

  1. gearmesh

    gearmesh Well-Known Member

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    What retraction settings are are you having success with with EDGE filament & bridging?

    I have a lot of webbing.on my bridges. Elsewhere my prints are great.

    These parts both had the same settings.
    Part 1 looks great
    Part 2 looks horrible
    Part 1 had little to no bridging whereas part 2 had many bridges and support, so there was a lot of jumping around compared to part 1 where it basically when free flowing with very few jumps.

    Edge Settings.jpg


    My nozzle temp is 210.

    Edge Settings 2.jpg
     
  2. richgain

    richgain Active Member

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    I have the same question and the same problem. I can't believe that nobody knows the answer to this.

    Edit: Forgot to add that I experimented with increasing the retraction distance to 2.5 mm and reducing the retraction speed to 1800 mm/min, possibly with some improvement as a result.
     
    #2 richgain, Oct 30, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2016
  3. Cedric_K

    Cedric_K Member

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    What works for me

    retractation lenght : 5,5mm
    retractation speed : 45mm/s


    I got Titan Extruder / Ed3 V6 / 300mm bowden tube / nozzle 240°C

    Too much strings is sometimes due to a light overextrusion, be careful with multiplier.
     
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  4. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    I recall someone on the forum saying that zero z-lift is a way to counter stringing on Edge, presumably because the small amount left on the nozzle is wiped off on the surface at the start of the move. I tried this and it seems OK. Not sure about the bridging though.

    The E3D v6 recommends a retraction of less than 2.5mm. I think if you use more, you risk getting soft filament into the heatbreak which can then jam.

    Interesting. I did a print recently with Edge and it felt to my like it was also over-extruding vs the same e-steps for PLA. I just alter the flow on the fly down to 95% to counter that, but an alternative would have been to measure the e-steps and put that in the GCODE for printing with Edge.
     
  5. Cedric_K

    Cedric_K Member

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    Hi Spoon !

    Never used any Z-lift at all..

    2,5mm retractation max is right, but only with direct extruder. My setup is for bowden tube, as I told, I use 300mm bowden, maybe you need more for a longer bowden tube..

    New features in S3D and Cura2 is coasting, it stops extruding a little before the end of the segment so it wipes the nozzle before retractation, I know that but never used anymore, Im waiting for a new spool of Edge to test.

    For multiplier, it appears to be something crucial, mine is around 91% (may change with material and manufacturer). With 1,79mm filament diameter entered into slicer (that was the average I measured on several points of the spool). I think PETg doesnt tolerate any overextrusion at all.

    When your step/mm are right, and your filament diameter is right, you could adjust flow rate by printing 20x20x20mm cubes, no infill, 1 bottom, 1shell, no top. Print at the speed your used to go, put minimum layer time to "1sec" so you're sure to print at full speed, so take some measures on shell tickness. If you ask 0,4mm to your slicer (E.g. it is your nozzle size), your MUST get 0,4mm walls (maybe 0,39 is best for Edge). it must no be 0,37 or 0,43mm.

    Most of the time, your first measure would be too high, it often exceed 0,5mm. So,surface finish on your prints is not optimal, it could makes bubbles and lot of oozing, hairy and stringy.

    Hope it could help.
     
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  6. cez

    cez Well-Known Member

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    A good starting place is around the 2mm mark anymore than 5mm (bowden) and your probably going to get complications
     
  7. Cedric_K

    Cedric_K Member

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    There is no rule with retractation, it depends on :
    -bowden lenght,
    -bowden actual inner diameter
    -filament diameter.
    -filament stiffness
    -any play where ptfe fits.
    -maybe other things like that

    I mean, when you set 5mm retractation with a loose bowden, maybe there are only 2mm of filament pulled away from nozzle, and 3mm wasted by the filament play inside tube.

    Too much retractation leads to jamming, because the filament diameter is expanded by heat inside heat break, and will not fit anymore if pulled back inside PTFE tubing.
     
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  8. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    I'd never even considered the loose play in the tube. Makes total sense.
     
  9. Cedric_K

    Cedric_K Member

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    Yeah, that's exactly why you sometimes hear about so much trouble with bowden settings on forums, there is less control on what you actually do, it can be a pain to set.

    Had lot of jamming while I was doing first trials on my homemade printer, but now it's good, I've not seen any jamming for a long. If I go back to 2mm, it's like if I have no retractation at all. With 4mm, it stops oozing but only for a quick time, so I need to go 5mm for ooze-free long distance moves.
     
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  10. cez

    cez Well-Known Member

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    I'll give this a go and see if I get any improvement, my Titan is grinding filament atm and I'm trying to eliminate possible causes.
     

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