1.75mm bowden maximum E feedrate

Discussion in 'E3D-v6 and Lite6' started by grazza, Oct 15, 2014.

  1. grazza

    grazza Member

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    I have had my v6 for less than a week and it isn't really any better than my crappy j-head clone I got with my Prusa i3 kit.

    I thought the E3D v6 was supposed to get a respectable print speed? Am I wrong.

    It works 100% fine at around 30mm/s print speeds in slic3r, but as soon as I crank up the speed to 100mm/s and print something with lots of infill it just clogs up and bends at the extruder as well as inside the bowden tube. I am pretty certain it has something to do with excess pressure building up in the hotend.

    I have searched and searched these forums and the web to try and find the maximum print speed for a v6 and I just can't.

    My setup is a 1.75mm ABS bowden setup, that is fed with a wades extruder, I am retracting only 4mm when needed.
    My E max feedrate is 15mm/s.
    My PID settings respectively are 35.71, 5.14, 62.02.
    I am using a non-E3D thermistor as mine broke during installation. (set to 1 in Marlin) (my supplier could not identify my the thermistor)
    (EDIT I have done some hunting to try and figure out what the thermistor actually is, and I have found that it is table 71 in marlin so I'll give that a go tomorrow and post it here)

    I am relatively new to the 3D printing game, so please could some one help me with this?

    Here are some things I have tried:
    Increasing the temperature from 240C to 260C.
    Decreasing E steps/mm.
    Re-leveling bed (fixed it for about two more layers than normal).
    Auto-tuning my PID settings several times.

    please ask if I need to provide more info, and please tell if there is something I can do.
     
  2. elmoret

    elmoret Administrator

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    I print at around 1 gram/minute, ABS, 265C through a 0.8mm nozzle when I'm going for speed.

    Maximum feedrate depends on a lot of other factors like nozzle size, etc. There is no "maximum", it is a product of several factors. With that said, 100mm/s is typically no problem at all but the smaller nozzles. Probably you have some sort of temperature problem - get the thermistor table sorted and then crank up to 260C or so for fast printing - the filament is moving through the block so fast that it never gets to heat up fully, so you need to run hotter at faster speeds.
     
  3. grazza

    grazza Member

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    Thanks Elmoret,

    I will be doing a test today, I noticed that my E feedrate was way too high even for air extrusions, so I have fixed that up as well as fine tuning the thermistor tables.

    EDIT:
    I have been experimenting with settings, and it seems that the hotend cant take more than 4mm/s and it even struggles at that,
    which is definitely not 100mm/s when doing infill. and all of this is at 280C, so unless I have the thermistor settings horribly wrong, which is a high possibility, I'm not very happy with this hotend, but I wont give up here, I'll order a branded quality thermistor and try again.
     
  4. grazza

    grazza Member

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    Could some one please let me know what temperature and E rate you are extruding ABS.
    My maximum is 5mm/s and I cannot find anywhere on the net a typical rate for the v6

    Sorry for the double post, but I am getting incredibly frustrated with this.
     
  5. elmoret

    elmoret Administrator

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    Like I already posted, 100mm/sec is possible. 60-80mm/sec should be no problem at all. 240-260C temps, depending on speed.

    Unless you have the right thermistor and thermistor table, I'm betting you're not reading temperatures properly.
     
  6. grazza

    grazza Member

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    Thanks again Elmoret, I think that the thermistor is the case.
    According to my no-name thermistor the maximum print speed is around 60-70mm/s at 280C.
    I'm really hoping the temperature is incorrect, I have no method of measuring the temperature otherwise I would have done so.

    I was asking for max E feedrate in my second post though.
     

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  7. Eaglezsoar

    Eaglezsoar Administrator

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    If you can get your hands on a thermocouple and meter you could put the thermocouple inside the hotend until it bottoms
    out inside the nozzle. This is the best way to verify if your thermistor is reporting the correct temperature to the firmware.
    The meter and thermocouple can be purchased at approximately $25 USD via Amazon.com
     

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