A new BigBox has come alive

Discussion in 'Show off' started by Jonas, Apr 17, 2016.

  1. Jonas

    Jonas Well-Known Member

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    My first 3D-print ever!

    IMG_2887.JPG

    It may not be perfect, but I love it.

    After some offset calibration I manage to print this

    IMG_0128.JPG
    IMG_0130.JPG

    Now, what can I do to improve the quality?
    I can see on the cone that the start of every layer is not as good on the red color as it is on the black. Red is printed with extruder 0. The settings are the same for both colours. Is it the filament (E3D everyday PLA Red and black)? Is it the pressure the leaver applies against the filament and the motor? Is it the current to the motor? ...
    I don't know anything, not even where to start. But I am very happy to have a working BigBox after 35 hours of building :)
     
    Mike Kelly, Westsidee, Stefan and 4 others like this.
  2. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    I would be very happy with those results. You can't expect every filament to behave in the same way due to the pigments and/or any fillers that may be included in the mix but you can play with nozzle temperatures and slicer settings to tune things but be happy with your first prints!
     
  3. Greg Holloway

    Greg Holloway Administrator
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    @Jonas That's a pretty impressive dual print!
     
  4. Jonas

    Jonas Well-Known Member

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    I am happy with the result, I just want it to be as good as possible. But if you seasoned 3D printers say it is good, then it's on to the next print. :D

    Thank you
     
    mike01hu likes this.
  5. Rob Heinzonly

    Rob Heinzonly Well-Known Member

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    Congrats ! These are certainly very good first 3D prints ! :)
     
  6. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    That's a pretty damned good dual traffic cone. Nice job. I suspect the boat is ever-so-slightly over-extruded, but it's a complete print. My first four boats were pretty much flat pieces of plastic, killed by thermal runaway.
     
  7. Jonas

    Jonas Well-Known Member

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    @Spoon Unit, I read your post on PID autotune and I think I am going to give it a try. When I look at the temperature curves, they look different for extruder 0 and 1. E0 fluctuates +/- 5 degrees. E1 +/-1 degree. I just need to read up a bit more on it so I don't do something wrong.
    I had read here about other people's thermal runaway problems so I blocked half the intake for the fan with a piece of paper when the temperature started to drop on the benchy print. Don't know how to change it on the LCD.
     
  8. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    You can drop the fan speed on the LCD using Control > Temperature > Fan. This doesn't change the temperature of the fan :)

    PID Autotune is good to do, but there remains the question about how to PID Autotune. Should you do it with the fan off or on. Should you do it in the middle of the bed or over the dump? Should you do it at Z=0 or Z=25? The response to heat of the whole hot end will be different for every variable, so I think the best way to tune the PID is for the harshest environment that it's going to encounter. To me that seems to be with Z=small and Fan on at, say, 80%. If the hot end can hold temp under those conditions then you should be good to go. There's still the change of changing temperature too rapidly though. All in all, there's plenty to get confused about. At present, PID-tuned for high fan, I find me temperature jumps around a lot until that fan is on at 80%. In a way, that just fine for big prints, but it might not be the best for small prints where the fan will never reach full speed.
     

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