So, when trying to print ABS, my print usually remains in place until about 80% of the print is done and then pops off of the hotbed. I've tried increasing the hotbed temperature from 100 degrees to 120 degrees (the heater seemed to be really struggeling to reach that), I've tried glue sticks, I've tried hairspray. The simplify3d troubleshooting guide suggests turning off the fan, but thats not something I'm entirely comfortable with. I'm going to try kapton tape next. The question I have is: do I just apply the kapton tape to the glass plate and then print without heating? If I should heat anyway, can kapton tape withstand 100 degrees or will things get ugly and smelly? I have to be a bit careful here, because my landlord installed a smoke detector right above my workbench :/ I'd like to avoid triggering that informant of Smokey the Bear.
Kapton tape is good for about 400°C so no problems with heat bed temperatures. I have a similar problem with my heat bed which takes a long time to get to 100°C, I've found ABS juice on glass to be very effective. You can mix up acetone and ABS in a container and apply as required or just pour some acetone on the heatbed and rub a 'puck' of ABS over it and it will leave a good film of ABS on the glass. DO this cold or the acetone will evaporate before it dissolves the puck. A failed print makes and ideal puck. I've only had success with hairspray when printing PLA
I haven't had the ABS juice on my radar yet. I'll give that a go after the Kapton. I've just spent 20 minutes trying to apply it without creases or bubbles. Makes you wish for a kapton flat iron...
Apply Kapton by first scouring the glass with something like Scotchbrite, then stick the tape at one side, say on the right, hold the other end up at 45 degrees (bed at bottom helps) then with tape in left hand use right hand to smooth it with fingers onto the glass......... if it bubbles a little lift it back of gently by pulling the end held by left hand...... (by gum this gets complicated ! ) not too much as it stretches. One other user also uses hair spray on top of the Kapton, this may help release the print which can be almost welded to the Kapton (there is a possibly a target temp to wait for the bed to cool to when the print will release most easily. Other thing is that the thickness of the Kapton may affect the first layer of print so look elsewhere here for the Z adjustment stuff. PS Heat still needed, like 110oC for ABS when using Kapton...........made some good screw threads internal and external this way.
Easiest way to apply kapton and get it flat is to use soapy water. Squeegee the kapton tape to the surface to get all the bubbles out and let it dry, heat up the bed. http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2011/05/20/applying-kapton-tape-without-bubbles
I've had very good lucky with the glass bed and Wolfbite nano solution. It is very easy to apply and doesn't leave a hard to remove residue, I print abs almost exclusively at 240c no fan and 120c bed temp.
Using Kapton I have been using 235 to 240 and 110 for the bed, and yes zero fan ! I occasionally get the first layer being a bit (for want of a better word "lumpy" ) as if I'm extruding a little too much filament and the nozzle is pushing this about, this effect goes away after a few layers if left alone (possibly the heat of the bed softening it a little) or I can turn the extrusion rate down from 100% to 95%. Just wondered if the slightly hotter bed temp 120 not 110 is of help here?
I just got around to testing the soap water method. Works great, and just as advertised. However, it really seems that it's a bit of a gamble if ABS will stick or not. I've had one print adhering so tightly after cooling that I had to carefully level it off with a screwdriver. Most other times the print still just separates from the kapton mid print, even when having the bed at 110 degrees and no cooling fan. I'm a bit hesitant of trying the wolfbite, after reading about the glas print bed chipping in the general chat. I'll be trying the ABS juice next and will report back here how it went. If that doesn't work, I'll just go back to PLA and stick with that (pun not intended).
You need to make sure you clean the Kapton with acetone or alcohol when it is cool. It makes a world of difference. I tried the soap water method and it didn't work for me, however someone gave me a rubber roller front a printer, steel rod coated in rubber, and I printed a fixture and I can basically roll it on almost perfectly every time.
