What’s the problem? Here at E3D we’ve always used groovemount on our hotends as the means of attachment. It's been the standard way to mount a hotend on a printer since the makergear standard was introduced. When introduced, it was intended for attaching a hotend to piece of laser cut wood. This is something we don’t really do anymore. It’s a method well-suited to making prototypes as it needs a minimum of skills and lathing tools, but it does have a few issues: Relying on 2 parts that simply push together requires that the parts are really precisely made. Even slight variation can result in a poor fit, with heat sinks that are either hard to push into a bracket or that wobble around during printing. We do our best to avoid this by using good machinists and doing random spot checks, but it’s still an issue we’d like to eliminate completely. Mounting brackets can wear down from repeated removal and replacement of the hotend, leading to a once well-fitting hotend becoming wobbly. While these issues don’t make groovemount unusable, we want to come up with a better fix. The solution We’ve thrown around a few ideas, but one that we’d like to take forward is kinda like a light bulb, consisting of a threaded socket and a heatsink with matching thread. The idea is that the socket would be permanently attached to the printer’s carriage. The hotend would then be screwed into it (just like screwing in a lightbulb!). One small addition is the that there is also a hole for a grub screw in the socket, the idea being that the grub screw prevents the heatsink from coming loose. It also lets you adjust the orientation of the hotend anywhere in a 360° arc - handy if you have a cooling fan very close to the heater block. It also lets you adjust your Z-height, for easy leveling if you have 2 or more hotends. Using threads has the benefit of not needing anywhere near as much precision as groovemount. Metal-on-metal threads will also take an incredibly long time for appreciable wear to develop, so that you can take it out and tinker as much as you like. This makes it easier to design for - capture a nut or use a heat-fit insert type, just tap the part or do something completely new altogether. Check out David Crocker’s PCB delta printer using an early prototype of this design. https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?pid=10669#p10669 We need you! We have about 10 sets of prototype parts here, and we’d like to get your thoughts and add any suggested improvements so that we can create the most design and user-friendly solution. If you’ve read this far, hotend mounting is clearly something important to you and we’d like to get your input. If you are interested in testing one, message me with a shipping address and a little bit about your 3D printing experience, and if you are lucky we will send you one. Some data about the parts: Functionally the same as the V6 1.75mm universal heatsink. Uses M14x1 thread for the main thread (this could change depending on feedback) Same overall height as a standard heatsink Combined mass of collar and heatsink is 10g more than a standard heatsink. 3x M3 holes for collar.