Any bed leveling tips?

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by Syko_Symatic, Apr 26, 2016.

  1. Syko_Symatic

    Syko_Symatic Well-Known Member

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    Morning All,

    I am really struggling at the moment with my getting my bed level since upgrading to the hybrid. Now the mesh leveling is a thing of the past I can not seem to get a nice first layer as there seems to be around a 0.1 is variance across the bed. I wondered whether anyone has some good tips for leveling the bed using the screws and hex nuts?
     
  2. Westsidee

    Westsidee Well-Known Member

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  3. Ray

    Ray Well-Known Member

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    I tried to level the glass bed before setting up any firmware (in my case BB dual 1.0 mesh levelling), I did this (although I am sure there are better ways of doing it):

    1. DIsable the steppers drivers
    2. Move the bed up so the highest point/corner is a piece of papers thickness away from the nozzle
    3. Manually move the print head to each corner, undoing the corner screw, turning the spacer until the nozzle was the same paper thickness away from the nozzle (as with the first point/corner), then do up the screw
    4. Repeat step 3 for the other 2 corners
    5. Check that the bed in each corner is now the thickness of a piece of paper away from the nozzle, if not repeat 2 to 4

    Obviously this worked for me for my BB dual 1.0, I then did a mesh bed level and each corner was now only 0.01mm from each other, just make sure your initial nozzle height is configured correctly such that the nozzle doesn't crash into the bed (and possibly damage something).

    Also it has been mentioned that the mesh levelling can be enabled in the firmware, this may apply to the Hybrid?

    @Westsidee Do you mean print that in terms of checking the bed is level or to help bed levelling?
     
    #3 Ray, Apr 26, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2016
    Old_Tafr likes this.
  4. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    When I get around to installing the Hybrid and thus changing the firmware, enabling mesh levelling will be the first order of the day. It's going to be hard otherwise I think as the glass bed is not necessarily flat.

    @Ray's steps are good. I would personally add to that a set of steps to first level the whole Bigbox with a spirit level, and then adjust the bed itself using the corner spacers with a spirit level to get everything as square as possible with gravity. Next I would put something flat on the bed (I reused my spirit level) and adjust the actual extruders so they're as level as possible with the top of the spirit level, and thus level with the bed. Given that this is always going to be tricky and slightly out, I then follow Ray's moves to push the x-carriage around the print bed to make sure it's visibly the same distance from the bed at all points, manually twisting the z-lead screws either side to get that as good as I can. Once done, you're ready to start calibrating for offset between the heads.
     
  5. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

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    I had previously described how I levelled the bed with the bed almost all the way down, and in relation to the front X axis smooth rod.

    Essentially an adjustable rod (fixed once you start measuring) used between the bed and the front X rod and moving the X-Carriage back and forth from front to back to get points at the front and rear of the bed. This got things to within a couple of thou.

    A levelled the bed this way then ran the 9 point calibration which was almost spot on.

    @Ray's approach is simpler and paper replaces a gauge (made of bamboo with round head screws in each end) and eliminates play in the linear bearings.
     

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