IDEAS Bed Adhesion - 3DLAC

Discussion in 'Guides, Mods, and Upgrades' started by SoBaldrick, Jul 13, 2016.

  1. SoBaldrick

    SoBaldrick Well-Known Member

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    I was using Glue Stick most of the time from initially building the BigBox, but them started to get some good bed adhesion restults for PLA on just cleaned glass, but that was failing small prints, and cleaned bed was not working for ABS or PET.

    I got some 3DLAC, and this has been giving me great results for PLA, ABS and PETG, small and large prints.

    Having to wait for the bed to fully cool down to remove all the prints. Luckly I have a second glass plate, so I can swap them over while cooling.

    3DLAC also a lot easier to clean of the bed compaired to Gue Stick.
     
  2. cez

    cez Well-Known Member

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    Totally agree, used it yesterday for the first time. It's brilliant stuff
     
  3. TimV

    TimV Well-Known Member

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    UHU which has heated up, is very easy to remove with a blade.
    And 3DLac is nothing more then Hairspray, some brand with bamboo extract thingy inside.
    Issue with hairspray of 3DLac is that it sticks all over the space, damaging the bearings and breaking down overall preformance. (unless you get the glass of every time.

    Just my 2 cents
    Greatz
    T.
     
  4. 3DogModeling

    3DogModeling Active Member

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    I use the Elmers Purple glue stick and it works fantastically and it come off easy with glass cleaner or water...it is water based. Haven't found anything that works as consistently across materials, with no major removal issues for the part. Next closest thing is PEI sheet on the glass...but to each his/her own!
     
  5. cez

    cez Well-Known Member

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    After some use I've had no issues at all It with 3Dlac. I'ts a much cleaner solution than the glue and you can easily wash it off with warm water unlike hairspray which needs a bit more elbow work to remove all residue. I've had 100% success rate, no warping on large abs parts. Super light dusting is all that is needed.
     
  6. Kanedias

    Kanedias Well-Known Member

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    It may depend on the brand of hairspray you use. I use insette which is cheap, comes off very easily with warm soapy water and sticks prints down so well leaving them to cool is more or less the only way to get them off without forcing them.
     
  7. cez

    cez Well-Known Member

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    Im happy with my 3dlac. I have 100% confidence in it. Makes it easier for me to leave my printer to do its thing without worry
     
  8. Falc.be

    Falc.be Well-Known Member

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    Almost done with 3rd bottle myself, colorfab ht gave me some problems with warping
     
  9. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    I've just got some PrintBite which I'm giving a whirl with some PLA first. Looks to be really good so far, much nicer than hairspraying everything.
     
    cez likes this.
  10. Tony Morel

    Tony Morel Active Member

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    PsyVision,
    How do I go about using PrintBite? After applying it to the bed, do I need to recalibrate (cause it's a couple of mm thick) and if so, how do I go about doing that? Have got myself into a right pickle (it's an original untweaked Pro if that helps)
     
  11. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    I saw your post on this. I've not used ABL which I think you have so I'm not sure as you need to do anything as the IR will just sense the bed is at a different height?

    I just cleaned the glass and then stuck it down. As I use MBL I re-ran the Level Bed process which set new offsets. Have you tried just homing and seeing what happens? If anything then I think you would just need to repeat the whole setting the Z-offset process that is outlined in the wiki.
     
  12. Tony Morel

    Tony Morel Active Member

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    Thanks to GeckoBox3D's assitance I decided to just go for it and stuck the sheet down, and re-ran the level bed.
    It now seems as if the nozzle is now higher off the bed than previously and it's just dribbling about a mm off into thin air.

    I'm on the original firmware for the Pro so it's ABL not MBL, and with all the changes to the wiki now I wasn't sure how far back the process I needed to rewind. I'm guessing if I go back loosening off the IR sensor andputting the offcut belt underneath and continue from there would that be enough?
     
  13. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    So I think you just need to change (lower?) the z-offset value via the LCD screen. I could be guessing here. I'd try that first, and failing that, go back to the IR/belt part of the wiki.
     
  14. Tony Morel

    Tony Morel Active Member

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    With just plain glass, does the IR trigger off the black heater matrix underneath the glass, or the top of the glass?
    Just wondering if that would explain my offset?

    Will try adjusting the z-offset via the LCD after housework, thanks.
     
  15. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    A quote from the horses mouth "I designed the IR sensor to work using the weak reflection from a glass surface"
     

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