Bed Z Setting

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by Spoon Unit, Dec 31, 2016.

  1. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Most of the time, every layer in a model I'm printing is the same height, but I do vary the height based on the geometry, as shallower overhangs will tend to print better with smaller layer heights and potentially also increased shells. In any case, for me, switching the layer height seems to generate less than perfect results. As usual, getting a good result from a 3D printer is often down to printing that first layer well, so I thought I'd share this finding in case it helps someone else. As always, YMMV.

    My printer still has the z-stop (optical) mounted to the x-carriage, and in order to get it to trigger, I've found that I need a little piece of tape in the corner of the bed, which I've configured as the z-safe-home point. With a clean bed, a new piece of well flattened and de-bubbled tape, I sought to find the right Bed Z setting for 3 layer heights; 0.25, 0.15, and 0.05. Respectively, I find that the correct z-bed setting is .280, .260, and .210 in order to get a smooth first layer. Here's the results:

    ApplicationFrameHost_2016-12-31_14-18-14.jpg

    Of course, we could argue till the cows come home about whether these are perfect first layers, given the tiny holes down the side. Here I'm printing the first layer at 100% height in order to try to duplicate exactly what I see in the slicer, and get rid of elephants foot. In any case, the finding I was looking for was that, at least with my printer, getting the first layer spot on requires an adjustment of the Bed Z for the selected layer height.
     
  2. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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