Hi, I want to know what are your maximum deviation after bed leveling? As the cantilever tend to be a bit lower in the front part of the build plate and it is fix mounted you are not able to compensate it. And I don't think that it is very useful if the Z axis have to move more than one millimeter.
I find that front to back the bed is quite level for me. Side to side, not so much. The way the cantilever is attached to the z-mechanism is just a friction fit with allen screws. I have them cranked down pretty tight and I can still get left/right rotation if I'm not careful. Basically, I look at the height map and then put some pressure on the bed to tilt it back in the right direction. I can get it all down to 'green' or 'pale yellow' (don't know the scale) that way, and it generally stays until the next head crash...
I corrected the static tilt on my TC bed (which was from left-to-right) by putting M3 washers and shims between the bed and some of the the spacers that it sites on.
This is also the way I have leveled my bed To e3d's defense, I don't have a metal Z-NUT-BRACKET. I printed it from carbon fiber reinforced nylon. But I think it is not as stiff as aluminum. I am still looking for someone who can machine it for me.
For a good start I had to use two washers at both sides of the front to fix the alignment to an acceptable state. I will print washers at an exact height for each corner when I am ready for that. And then I will include them at the bottom of the peek supports. Orelse I cut pieces from a cheep feeler gauge and add them inbetween the flat bed aluminium and the bended one to have a perfect level in future.
I've got some washers on there as well, but it is finicky getting them on there. I need to take some m4 washers to the metal bandsaw and cut them open so I can slide additional ones on without fully removing the bolt...
