Big Box Dual

Discussion in 'Build Help' started by University of Toronto, Sep 24, 2016.

  1. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    Hi,

    I am from the Univresity of Toronto, and I have ordered the Big Box dual with the Titan Extruder.

    I was in the subassembly 12.9, and I would like to know that If I were to connect the motor wires (updated ones- the ones in the instructios are the old model ones) as seen in the attachement, is this fine? Or do I have to cut the ends off? Because I see that there is 1B 1A... writen and repeated 4 times in which we can insert the female black ends.

    Please let me know if this is fine.

    Thanks
     

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  2. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Hi and welcome!

    Don't cut!!!! You should have a Y cable for the Z motors... You should be able to connect all motors with connectors on the PIN, no screw terminals needed anymore.

    Sorry to say but your image shows nothing only two motor cables connected to srepper drivers...
     
  3. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    Hi,

    Apologies for image not being clear. Let me try to explain. The wires connected have the ends (white) that connect to the stepper motors. I was just in Step 12.9 in the sub assembly, and I just wanted to just make sure that if I can connect the female black ends to the board as in the images. If so, which pins should I connect to on the board. I see 1B-Black, 1A-Green,2A-Red and 2B-Blue. So, with my current connection, can I connect these Motor Cables to any pin with this markings? I see 4 set of pins in front of the screw pin. The instructions seem to be old as they still use the screw terminal. Please find attached image from the instructions that I am referring to. Also, Please find attached the image of my current connected Rumba finishing Step 12 of the Assembly. IMG_3129.jpg Rumba.jpg IMG_3129.jpg Rumba.jpg

    Thanks

    Best Regards
     
  4. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Look like mine are connected but you will realize if you try to move them the very first time. If the move the opposite direction just turn the connector on the board by 180°.
     
  5. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    But again you should have an Y cable, two white connectors for the motors going to one black connector. This is the cable you have to use for connecting the Z. You have to use the PIN for the stepper labeled with Z...
     
  6. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    Hi,

    Thank you so much for the information. I got it as separate. So 1 white connector goes to one black connector. So, I am assuming it is for each motor.
     
  7. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Hmmm the new kits should have an Y cable... if not then you have to cut the black connector of one cable and use the screw terminals. Both Z motors go to one stepper driver...
     
  8. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    Also, I see there is Z+ and Z-, but both of them only have 3 connector? This is the only region with 4 pins (the currently connected pins)
     
  9. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    In Total I got only 4 cables ( two very long 175 mm) and 2 short ones. But all of these wires are separate with one white end and 1 black end. So I have to cut the small ones black ends right?
     
  10. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, do I have to cut the ends of only one?, and put inside the pins of the other inside?
     
  11. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Z+ and Z- are for endstops but we do not have endstops on the BB to connect there...

    The PINs where you put one connector are also available as screw terminals the green row on the boards edge. You cut one, only one cable, and put the cables in the screw terminals just the same color order as you connector in the PINs has... Take care you really use the correct terminals because the are slightly shifted compare to the PINs...
     
  12. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    Thanks a million. That makes alot of sense now! For connwcting the wires after i cut one of the ends, I will follow the ports as hownen in the instructions but matchinh the colours as you mentioned. also I use the two shortest cables from step 12.9 correct? Because in the instructions it does not mention the length
     
  13. cez

    cez Well-Known Member

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    Are you missing a y cable?
     
  14. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    Is this the right setup for the wiring for the IEC Scoket? Because the pins sem to be in different orientation with the one I have as compared to the Image in the instructions
     

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  15. RTBiscuit

    RTBiscuit Well-Known Member

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    I've hit the same problem,

    got to the wiring of the Z axis cables to the rumba and can't find the cables shown on the wiki guide that show you snipping and cutting and joining the green, blue and reds and blacks etc.

    I have 2 long cables 2 medium and 2 short in the motor box with the right coloured wires. but not the shorter ones shown in the wiki.

    I shall check my box now to see if there is a Y cable for my dual.

    ....

    having just checked mine it looks like i will be cutting the 2 small ones, reading above and checking the box seems to have helped. no Y cable so have to use the old method.
     
  16. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    There were two concerns I faced when building the hot end (Step 21.3 in main assembly)

    1. There was a machining defect in one of the aluminum casing, as the threads were not there for the other thinner section. Hence, when I tried to put the screw from the side of nozzle, it could not grip the other thinner half and hold the heater in place. For the other aluminum casing it was there and much easier to do. So the dome shaped screw head wore out, because the allen key wore out the head . So, I used the square shaped head with the same length 1mm from the "little fixtures toolbox" from the side opposite to the nozzle. It seems to tighten fine. Is this alright?

    2. There was only one small fan in the extruder box, but I found a similar size fan in the "LCD and FANS box". However, the wire seems to be way longer than the one that was there in the extruder box? Is this fine to use for the second titan?

    3. Lastly regarding length of the wire, we should use the two smallest ones correct for Step 12.9 in sub assembly?

    Thanks
     
  17. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    Are both the extruders supposed to be tight enough that we cant rotate them at all when we mount them? Because one of the extruders seems to be free to rotate a bit, and I have already done several of the other steps following this? I really hope there is a quick an easy fix if needed! BEcasue there are so many wires etc. that I had to zip tie down!
     
  18. A Dragon In A Pie Costume

    A Dragon In A Pie Costume Well-Known Member

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    check both orings are in place, neither should be rotateable.
    also use as many zip ties as possible, especially around the connecter for the pt100, 1 on each side, with out it the connector likes to give inaccurate results
     
  19. University of Toronto

    University of Toronto Well-Known Member

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    Hmm Ok. However, the part that is rotating is the aluminum block.

    Thanks :)
     
  20. A Dragon In A Pie Costume

    A Dragon In A Pie Costume Well-Known Member

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    i had that issue aswell, simply unscrew the grub screws, not completely thoug. hold the block and rotate the heatsink. as easy as that, if you want feel free to pm me or anyone here for faster help, shoutbox is also an option! the bigbox is an amazing machine once tuned properly, like a piano!
     

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