IDEAS big box, what will you change on it first?

Discussion in 'Guides, Mods, and Upgrades' started by KNM3D, Sep 4, 2015.

  1. Kanedias

    Kanedias Well-Known Member

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  2. Falc.be

    Falc.be Well-Known Member

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    I will most likely install a dual cooling fan on the extruder
     
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  3. thingster

    thingster Active Member

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    The more I think about BigBox the more I want to modify. :D Dual cooling fan on the extruder and LED illumination are a must, of course, and easy to do as well. Also a better print bed would be nice since I'm not a fan of glass beds (sure, it's flat as hell, but in the end it's an insulator, meh...) I even toy with the idea to switch from direct drive to bowden because of reasons... I'll see. :)
     
  4. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

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    You kidding me. A solid alu block the size of this printer must way a ton! Even aluminium. Just guessing without doing any calculations.

    Update:
    I will add some powerful white LEDs for the cam.
     
  5. KNM3D

    KNM3D Well-Known Member

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    We have old blocks from out CA machine shop. :D
     
  6. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

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    It would be sick! Please do this and please document thoroughly! Timelapse? :D
     
  7. KNM3D

    KNM3D Well-Known Member

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    we are working on getting the ok to do this on the monster cnc.
    hope its a yes.
     
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  8. Jon

    Jon Well-Known Member

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    Re the marble, would you get the accuracy with water jetting? If so, water jet cutting aluminium I think is cheaper than CNCing...
     
  9. KNM3D

    KNM3D Well-Known Member

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    only if the cncing costs me money :p:D
     
  10. elmuchacho

    elmuchacho Member

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    Will move the filament holder to the side or the front.
     
  11. Jon

    Jon Well-Known Member

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    That's a properly good idea.
     
  12. Kanedias

    Kanedias Well-Known Member

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    I'd be interested in Sanjay's opinion on this one; a d-sub connector on the cable loom to the extruder assembly - possibly at the top edge of the back.

    This way the whole assembly could be simply unplugged and replaced when you want to switch to a volcano.

    The only thing I'm not sure about is if the temp sensor and heater element cables can be cut and soldered on both sides of a plug and socket.
     
  13. Imko

    Imko Active Member

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    Ill add some ledlights, but i am hoping it does not need any modifcations / hacking to print consistent. Not that i am afraid to change something, i desiged and build my current printer.

    For me a 3d printer is a tool not a mission.
     
  14. Tony Morel

    Tony Morel Active Member

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    I'm curious as to what Sanjay has to say on this, I asked about there being a kit of parts for swapping out the single head for the dual setup (I went for the prebuilt) but then I'm also pretty sure he said there was a custom wiring loom compared to the normal length cables for PT100 etc.
    With RichRaps magnetic carriage this would be a great solution if possible, and would make it easier for experimenting with things like Kraken / Cyclops etc which would surely result in extra sales for them.
     
  15. Halvard Fosse

    Halvard Fosse Member

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    Should be possible to use a standard D-Sub connector as they are rated at 5Amps and are quite sturdy.
    And if we make a custom bracket on top of the BigBox, changing carriages would be simple :)

    Perhaps a DSub15 for main, and DSum 9 for secondary?
     
  16. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    I will be doing this, as I have done this on my existing printer. Depending on the number of wires the D9 should be OK but as Halvard says, a D15 will give the extra pins. I doubled up pins used on the high current lines, including the ground line, to remove the risk of being close to the maximum current the pins can carry.

    Mike
     
  17. Sanjay

    Sanjay Administrator
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    As it stands production BigBoxes do not have any head connector for rapid print head disconnect/reconnect. It was far more logistically simple to have each manufacturer produce the components with the correct wire length and connector on each part. For example, we had the fan manufacturers make all the fans with just the right length of wire, and the correct connector to plug right into the board. Same with the heaters, PT100s, motors etc etc. Adding in a cable, a connector etc would have been a significant extra cost and complication to manage supply chain wise.

    I would however love to see a standardised type print head connector. It's been much discussed and WhosaWhatsis has drawn up a pretty solid starting point for a connection standard: https://plus.google.com/+Whosawhatsis/posts/6gPeQmmvWCC

    It'd be nice to use Molex Microfit where possible, which is what we're moving to for our standard all round connector at E3D. They are very nice little connectors, and have wire to wire, and wire to board versions.
     
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  18. eca

    eca Well-Known Member

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    Truthfully, one thing I keep seeing popping up are dual head printers where the heads move completely put of the way so as to not interfere with each other. I would love to see this on my BigBox one day.
     
  19. Skinny Kid

    Skinny Kid Member

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    So if I want to eventually have dual extrusion is it better to order the dual kit now rather than the single pro assembled version? I was hoping to not have to put it together (but I will if needed). If I order the single head, will I be able to switch to the dual head, kraken, volcano etc? Sorry just trying to be as informed as possible since I am about to order my Big Box.
     
  20. Kanedias

    Kanedias Well-Known Member

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    That's what I've used on my current printer. Bit fiddly to get cable lengths all the same length for crimping but they are neat.

    One of my first projects was going to be strain relief cuffs for the connectors out of ninja flex. If it works out I'll post the details here.

    For anyone who googles molex micro fit and has a heart attack at the price of the official crimping tool I use this http://www.amazon.co.uk/quality-UNI...F8&qid=1450512606&sr=8-1&keywords=Molex+crimp and it works fine once you get the hang of it.
     

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