COMPLETE BigBox 1.1

Discussion in 'Guides, Mods, and Upgrades' started by Greg Holloway, Apr 8, 2016.

  1. fpex

    fpex Well-Known Member

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    I am not liking this. I will contact support to return my titan-related order and leave things at 1.0 till it brings no headache to big box people
     
  2. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    Most things are a bit chaotic in the beginning. No exceptions here.

    Note that the case modification is not necessary to fit Titan and to have it working.

    It's only if you want to get 100% of the potential build volume on the Dual.... Instead of the high nineties, which you'll get with the new printhead and which is still lots better than 1.0.
     
  3. fpex

    fpex Well-Known Member

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    Well, I stopped my building and ordered 1.1/titan because of the 100%. Few mm ok, but this looks more than that right now. So not sure worth the hassle and money (I will never touch/saw acrylic myself).
    I know things are always chaotic. Every printer I built was rebuilt 5 to 10 times .... I just regret getting acrylic right now.
     
  4. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    But actually it is only a few mm.

    The left side is only a problem for me at the moment because of my "be able to plug everything" I have sleeved all the cables, If you don't have this then you have no problem on the left side.
    BTW I have four mods of the motor bracket right now and I could make another one too if you want it or make it yourself.
    The first mod was changing the cable ties to velcro ties, modded the mounting positions and removed the divider between the cutouts.
    The second one is the wall between motor and Titan thinned because I had problems with the screw getting a grip or being too long.
    The third is the mount for the left hotend cables shortened.
    The fourth one restored the offset of the hotends.
    I could make a "stock" version with just the left cable mount shortened...

    So on the left side you get the right nozzle to X0.

    And on the right side it is about X295 (?) didn't check on the machine yet because I have not calibrated the left side yet to get the right nozzle to really X0 on the bed...

    So you lack 5mm but you gain the ability to print X295 with BOTH nozzles, that is +75mm compared to the direct dual!
     
  5. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    If you put the Titan on the left and Bowden on the right, do you remove the issue? The gear in question is on the right of the carriage. You may need to protect it from grinding the Bowden tube.
     
  6. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Thought about this too but the problem is the endstop. You would have no space to place it. You cloud move it under the Titan but then you have to change the Y idler carriage because the endstop screw is for this too high...
     
  7. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Oh and because the Titan is asymmetric you have to turn it by 180 dry so the motor is in front so it does not protrude over the left side of the carriage...
     
  8. fpex

    fpex Well-Known Member

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    I guess than I just need to get all mount an see. few mm is ok.
    From the drawing looks like 1 good cm, though
     
    #228 fpex, Apr 17, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2016
  9. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Ok now I measured it... If I place the right nozzle exactly on the X0 line of the bed then I can go to X330 with the right nozzle which is right before the gear of the Titan touches the case.
    With an offset of -38mm for the left nozzle it gives me a maximum of X292 for dual prints.

    Now I have several possibilities to gain the last 8mm:
    1. Cut the case top part (I don't wanna do that at the moment)
    2. Get the most out of the left side, because there is no clamp I can actually go left of the X0 line on the bed with the right nozzle, that depends on how I manage the cable problem.
    3. Change the offset of the hotends. I reduced it to the original offset of 35mm which will give me 3mm in the current stage would give me a maximum of X295 for dual prints.
    I think at first I will try to optimise 2. and 3., 2.5mm could be possible to get in each case...
     
  10. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    BTW I didn't read how Greg planned this, I set my box up in a way the direct Titan is extruder 0 fed by the left spool 1 and the bowden Titan is on the right side, fed by the right spool 2.
    In the pictures I saw by Greg it seems left is left and right is right.
    So I would have to make a slightly different firmware... But I will make one too for those who go the "Greg Way" :D
     
  11. fpex

    fpex Well-Known Member

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    Or we can make life easier and get the top laser cut by somebody else. Unfortunately it is too big to cut it in pieces and print it.
     
  12. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    The top is in fact in two pieces, so it's not enormous.

    I'll go to my local fablab with the DXF.

    Setup the laser to cut 5mm acrylic.

    Lay a piece of cardboard on the bed and cutout the part.

    Leave the cardboard in place and lay the acylic over the exact place of the cutout (to get the alignment right).

    Hit "start" again, this time cutting the acrylic.


    You can cut with a fine saw and flame polish afterwards.

    You could also cut with something hot: people do it with thick nichrome wire or a soldering iron attached to a disposable blade.
     
  13. fpex

    fpex Well-Known Member

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    Not for me cutting acrylic. I wish I had a later cutter, but not spare space and money for it ... I am trying to find somebody locally or in uk that cuts it.
     
  14. Greg Holloway

    Greg Holloway Administrator
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    Use a dremel with a drum sander attachment.
     
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  15. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    IT IS ALIVE!
    And it is printing using my hacked firmware with mesh bed leveling.
    After some strange, very strange issues and some reflashes, some minor adjustments to the settings in the firmware I was able to complete mesh leveling and I am printing one of my modified parts now...
     
  16. JesperJuul

    JesperJuul Well-Known Member

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    @LiviLammister Is it still working great with the tiny 13Ncm stepper on the titan?
     
  17. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    I have the tiny motor but haven't connected it yet. Will need to do some soldering but need to buy a new soldering iron!
     
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  18. JesperJuul

    JesperJuul Well-Known Member

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    Great! Get movin´;) I would very much like to here some torture testing, before i buy it since i have to pay crazy money to get it compared to the other steppers i have bought.

    Btw. i can really recommend hakko fx-888d, it is a great iron!
     
  19. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    Not sure where you're based? I got my stepper from eBay UK (via omc-stepperonline) it was only £13

    I left my last iron on by mistake and it melted the rubber handle and ruined the nib. Won't be buying another Maplin cheapo one.
     
  20. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    I thought about my changes and I will not go for the reduced hotend offset for the moment.
    Changing the motor bracket and the extruder body was "easy", took me a while but was not that hard.
    The problem is that the fan bracket is now dependent on the offset. Haven't thought about this... And the fan bracket is not so easy to modify by just pushing and pulling faces...
     

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