COMPLETE BigBox 1.1

Discussion in 'Guides, Mods, and Upgrades' started by Greg Holloway, Apr 8, 2016.

  1. Syko_Symatic

    Syko_Symatic Well-Known Member

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    I have used some JST 4 pin connectors to do mine. No soldering required. I have soldered some connections onto the fans though and replaced my PT100s with the detachable ones. The only things that can not currently be detached are the heaters.

    Currently printing the Point_One_E3d Extruder model then I should be able to start putting the Titan on! Do I need the new ooze wiper?
     
  2. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    The motor I have dosn't have the JST socket like the E3D supplied ones. I think the 18Ncm one does though.

    I haven't printed the new ooze wiper. the only difference looks to be holes, possibly for mounting a scrubbing brush? and that the rubber strip is angled.
     
  3. Syko_Symatic

    Syko_Symatic Well-Known Member

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    I just cut the wires and added a JST female plug on the end and a male on the end of the existing wire (obviously you have to remove the existing connector).
     
  4. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    Ah, when you said no soldering I presumed something else. I presume you have the crimping tools (if required) then?
     
  5. fpex

    fpex Well-Known Member

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    btw anybody knows of a workshop cutting acrylic ... let me know. No matter price, but i just cannot feel like adjusting the top myself.
     
  6. Syko_Symatic

    Syko_Symatic Well-Known Member

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    Yes £11 for the crimping tool on amazon.
     
  7. fpex

    fpex Well-Known Member

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    Guys a silly question, does the direct also need a bowled adaptor? normally the dissipator attaches to the titan, but for the BB this seems not possible.
     
  8. Chase.Wichert

    Chase.Wichert Well-Known Member

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  9. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    You don't need if you put the heat sink of an V6 directly into the Titan.
    The current design of the BB but uses a short bowden tube from the extruder (Titan or direct) to the hotend because of the ability to level both hotends...
    So for the BigBox you need always the bowden adaptor, for the Titan on the print head and for the Titan which is on the back and really a bowden...
     
  10. fpex

    fpex Well-Known Member

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    luckily I have few spares. Just checked.
    Thanks guys.
     
  11. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    I have used my router and router table on acrylic no problems before, however I have never worked with Perspex(SP?) brand before.

    Is there a reason I should not use a router to cut off however many mm is required for this mod?
     
  12. Hans C.

    Hans C. Well-Known Member

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    I've routed & drilled acrylic successfully, but I've also had it shatter. If that was my Big Box panel I'd use a drum sander on a drill press, for control, or take my chances with a small drum sander on a Dremel.
     
  13. LiviLammister

    LiviLammister Active Member

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    Yup! Even carbon fiber extrudes beautifully
     
  14. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    Hmm I have access to an oscillating drum sander but that seems like a lot of material to remove that way
     
  15. Hans C.

    Hans C. Well-Known Member

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    I can't view the build files yet, so I don't know how much material has to be removed. All I know for sure is that acrylic can be tricky, which is why I went for the plywood frame.
     
  16. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

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    Anyone knows if water jet can be used to cut acrylic? A company close to me does this.
     
  17. Colin

    Colin Well-Known Member

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    Water jet should be fine, if you aren't using them and want a test bring along one of the side inserts.
     
    Stian Indal Haugseth likes this.
  18. fpex

    fpex Well-Known Member

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    I start to think it is easier/cheaper to order a full new frame 1.1 more than adjusting one piece.
     
  19. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    I am thinking about lifting the extruder by 10mm or so. That way the gear would be over the frame. Just need a longer Bowden from the extruder to the hotend. Shouldn't be that problem...
     
  20. fpex

    fpex Well-Known Member

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    if you do that, I would add a second bowden adapter not to weaken the direct link.
     

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