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Discussion in 'Guides, Mods, and Upgrades' started by Greg Holloway, Jan 31, 2017.
I think that looks like some kind of chromed restraining nut to hold the sock up
This is the IDEX Bowden with a Nimble.
That fits with no modification to the carriage?
No modification other than the mounting holes
View from the bottom, the Nimble extends a mm over the edge.
The only thing that would be nice is an IR mount on them.
U.S. Stock for the stepper
I also ordered new rods, I don't want to cut the stock rods
It's a standard sock that I have modified for printing with brushes.
I did consider that, but given that most people don't have a duet board, or a reliable print surface I decided to stick with the sensor on the bed. Personally I prefer the MBL and sensor on the bed, I find it far more reliable and considerably less faff.
Ok so i have decided on trying this out.
I Like the new design allot since its a more cost effective route with less hassle from my point for view.
So Im gonna go from KS 1.0 PRO to IDEX Bowden. Using the low cost option of Non-Titan Bowden System.
So i made the list on what is needed.(EDIT> list revised after Cregs advice)
2 x NEMA 11 Stepper Motors.
2 x LM8LUU Bearings.
2 x F604ZZ Bearings.
2 x 20mm M4 Grub Screws.
2 x 460mm 8mm Ground & Hardened Shafts (cut down original BigBox 484mm Rods).
Additions needed upgrading from KS 1.0 PRO
-Printed extra parts
2x Printed Bowden ideler
1xPrinted Zaxis endstop mount
1x Xaxis Belt tensioner
1x New Wipe setup for 2 nozles
2x Plastic Bowden cupplers
1x Hobb-Goblin - 5mm ID Drive Gear
1x Bowden Idler Spring
2x16T GT2 Pullys
2m G2 Belt
1x E3d Hotend 24 V
1x 12v DC Side Blow Fan*
*Make sure this is the Bigbox version when making the order
Im wondering a about the thermometer setup. The original Bigbox hotened have the PT100 Temperature Sensor but its fine to use the normal 104GT thermistor and just plug it in directly to the rumba?
Offtopic i noticed that in we current webshop there is no mention about the new thermistors that are now standard for the kits seems odd.
List looks good, you'll also need an endstop (http://e3d-online.com/Endstop-Microswitches-Omron) those are not the correct ones but if you put a note in the order that it is for a bigbox we will make sure you get the correct endstop.
The same goes for the side blow fan (http://e3d-online.com/50x50x15mm-12v-DC-Side-Blow-Fan) If you mention it is for the bigbox and ask that they speak to me I'll make sure you get the fan.
When printing the parts you'll also need this | https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1531536 and an extra X-Carriage belt tensioner.
I would also recommend this too | https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1755929
The motors use 16T GT2 Pulleys, you'll need two | http://e3d-online.com/GT2-Pulley-16-Tooth
I would also get 2 meters of GT2 belt | http://e3d-online.com/GT2-Belt-6mm
The universal kits are supplied with thermistors, it is stated in the first paragraph. You will indeed be able to use it. Just adapt the firmware to show the change.
You'll also need a smackering of M3 square nuts and bolts. If you save all the parts from the old printhead and if you kept the spare from the original build there should be enough.
The benchy finished and was waiting for me this morning. It has had minimal clean-up.
X&Y Off-Set is corrected in the slicer and Z is adjusted with M218. Interestingly enough when the off-set is measured, Z is actually 0, but for whatever reason I have to have it set to -0.5 for it to work?!
That turned out well!
Time to make a list and check it twice...
I havent had the time yet to try and put and of this in a modeling program so figured I would ask, Off the top of your head with your design do you see any place you could mount a bltouch sensor to either carriage?
If you remove the cup, is there room to swing the cooling fan off to the side without loosing build volume? Then I can see mounting the bltouch to the front, or are you thinking somewhere else?
What cup? If you take the fans off you'll gain maybe 10mm. You could also swap to a different fan type and make a new shroud.
By cup I ment the extra white printed shroud that attaches to the fan, I dont use them currently and have had no issues. What I ment is if you remove that white piece and slide the fan around to the side instead of the front, will the defualt fan setup collide with anything or will it still clear?
I was thinking that If I slide the heatsink cooling fan to the side of the V6 I could mount the bltouch where the white printed shroud is and just not use the white shroud at all.
I just need to bring all the stl's into a cad program and check to see where I can mount it, I will stop bothering you about it
I never did have complete success with bowden extruder of my dual hybrid titan. Mostly due to poor retractions.
Was looking forward on seeing direct IDEX as some sort of upgrade kit from e3d/bigbox. Sad to see Greg abondoned it.