Implemented the independent Z motors on my big box and 2 things are imediatly clear. 1) Z movements are dramatically quieter! 2) Leveling left and right is now a snap. I was always shifting the left side a bit after cleaning down the bed. Now, all sorted. Run G32 a couple of times and sorted. Seriously happy with the new bed leveling using 2 Z motors! As I have a redundant cooling fan on the flap to the electronics I reallt should hook it up and have it turn on based on CPU temp/Driver warnings and who would not want to be able to resume after power fail! Need to look into that a bit more too.
I have been one from this for awhile (new baby just sucked time away) and just updated to 1.19+6 and would love to implement this, could you show me your new bed.config file so that I can at least have an idea what I am doing before I mess something up? Thanks. I assume that this needs to be done after leveling the bed out.
I know the feeling! Think of it like training AI only it is real “I” . Also Congratulations! I am away now till Friday but will dig it all out friday for you, but all I remeber doing was defining the 2 Z motors in config.g and defining their position relative to the bed. Then once I have done a mesh normal leveling (once in a blue moon these days), occasionaly i will run G32 which will level left and right of the bed and tell me the offset that will be applied from here on. I run a G32 again sometimes just to confirm it has been done but always has. Not a great write up i know, i will dig out my config.g when back. I dont have G32 in the bed.g I dont think, i just run it manually after the occasional heavy wipe of my PEI bed (which may have shifted it) https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?pid=26157#p26157 Is the thread which i used to check my working. Should give you waht you need till i get back,
The instructions are at https://duet3d.com/wiki/Bed_levelling_using_multiple_independent_Z_motors. As noted in the thread linked to in the previous post, the probe points in bed.g need to be coordinates that the probe (not the nozzle) can reach. You can test it before you switch to independent motors by using it in manual mode, see https://duet3d.com/wiki/Using_the_manual_bed_levelling_assistant. Although that says you need 3 screws, you can define just 2 if you only want to check the side-to-side levelling.
Oh yeah, there was that in the bed.g... sorry, late night, early start and shoddy trains...memory fail
Quick question: do I need to grt 12v fans or do the fan connectors automaticly supply 24v when the board is powered by 24v ?
Assuming you have the fan voltage selector jumper in the VIN position, then if you supply 24V to the VIN terminal block, you will get 24V at the fan connectors.
My bigbox is now converted to the duetwifi I also installed a duex2 for the upcoming IDEX conversion. However I used heaters 3 and 4 because The headers for heater 1 and 2 were not reachable with the cables (I installed the duet without opening the bottom panel) Everything works like it should, prints fine (except for bed adhesion) however I have 4 extruders showing on the paneldue, and I am not able to heat to the extruders or the Bed from the paneldue. how do I solve this ? @dc42 ?
I'm sorry, PanelDue currently assumes that tools 0 and 1 use heaters 1 and 2, because that's the usual arrangement and PanelDue does not currently have access to the tool to heater mapping. So the only suggestions I can make for now are either to rewire it to use heaters 1 and 2, or to modify the PanelDue firmware, or to modify RRF to remap the heater channels.
Is there a way to have manual mesh bed levelling like on Marlin and save it to the firmware? I'd need that as an interim solution because it will be a while before I get my hands on a BLTouch or something similar. I've done Greg's mod with moving the IR sensor to the side of the bed assembly and have it probe against the frame platform on the right (with some insulating tape to increase precision) which works amazingly well for reproducible homing once you have a manual mesh bed compensation in the EEPROM. But with the soon-to-be-attempted move over to Duetwifi I don't know whether I have to change that?
Set the Z probe type to 0 in the M558 command, and configure and run mesh bed probing as usual. Every time it needs to probe the bed, the firmware will prompt you to jog the nozzle down to the bed and click ok.
Ok, so the board is in and everything seems to be running, my only problem now is the manual bed compensation as I have no Z probe yet. I home to a Z min endstop switch and all that works already. However, I can't get the printer to run me through the dialogue David mentioned - I have Z configured as endstop, Z probe is set to 0 in config.g and when I go to the web interface and tell it to "Run Mesh Grid Compensation", it first told me there is no grid defined. Updated config.g to contain "M557 X0:250 Y0:200 S50" which gets rid of the no grid error message but then it doesn't prompt me for anything and just crashed into the bed, ignoring the Z endstop switch. Config.g is attached
What firmware version are you running? You need firmware 1.19 or later to do manual calibration. Also, send M558 with no parameters and check that it tells you the Z probe type is 0 (i.e. not present). Edit: your config is wrong, you have M558 P1 instead of M558 P0.
David, you're a star. I figured it out myself with the GCode reference a minute ago, it prompts now but I am amazed and impressed by you replying that fast. Running 1.20 on a DuetWiFi with a Duex5. Thanks once again, very very impressive board, printer feels like a completely different machine now.
What makes it feel like a completely different machine? It's a big investment for me to make when I have the Rumba board working, but I am curious about your impression. Thanks!
It is that much quieter, smoother. Once I get a motor dampener for the Y axis (have an old 1.0 Dual) I will not be able to hear the movement over the fans at all which is amazing compared to the loud monstrosity it was before. The TMC2660 stepper drivers are just a world above everything else, they sound like the TMC2130s but with significant more power. I also love that once set up correctly, only the hot end fan that is actually in use spins up as the V6 30mm ones are screaming little banshees. That alone saves a lot. If you go for Titan Aqua and a passive PSU, the machine would be virtually silent (as long as there is no parts fan on). Tweaking and backing up your config conveniently via web interface and not having to reflash something via USB just for a few config changes also is a great improvement. tl;dr: The move away from 8Bit RUMBA, RAMPS etc to Duet was the single best thing I've ever done to any printer. Greatly greatly recommended. It even beats Smoothieboard and BeagleBone hands down. And you don't even need to run OctoPrint on the side anymore as it has practically all its functionality on board. However, if you have a Raspberry that came with the OctoPrint upgrade for BigBox, you can repurpose it as a camera server and integrate the picture into Duet's web interface.
