I will do so once the machine is up and running again, at the moment it is in pieces as I am rebuilding it with the IDEX system, BLTouch, integrated leadscrew Z motors and sleeving all the cables individually to keep things tidier. The Bigbox in its original design is a horror to assemble and disassemble but it is a wonderful machine once it works. I'll let you know once I managed to isolate the commands that cause the trouble - if it still does that thing once I moved over to the BLTouch and automated 2-point Z leveling. I guess @K3LAG 's config will be a good starting point, so I'll start from there.
Question about homing the axis and the right config for it. Below is the config script I use for homing the z-axis. I copied it from a post in this topic. When i try to home the z-axis I get the error that there are insufficient axis homed. When I comment line G1 Z5 F200 that error is resolved but a different error is given: Code: Error: Z probe already triggered at start of probing move Error: G0/G1: insufficient axes homed The bed is already at the top of the printer causing the z-probe to trigger so the error about the z proby already triggered is correct. However when I try to move the bed down the error about insufficient axes homed is given. The x and y axis are homed. I seem to be stuck in a loop as i can't seem to move the bed down without homing it and can't home without moving the bed down. Any ideas on how to get out of that loop? homez.g Code: T0 ; select first hot end G91 ; Relative coordinates G1 Z5 F200 ; Lower bed to avoid hotend dragging in bed. G90 ; Absoulte coordinates G1 X35 Y15 F3000 ; Go to first bed probe point and home the Z axis G30 ; Calibrate Z-axis G1 Z1 F200 ; Raise bed to 1mm.
First time the homing worked as the bed was lowered and needed to raise. It triggered the z-probe just fine. Homing x and y also work as long as I don't add a line to the home script to lower the bed. The Duet is running firmware version 2.0(RTOS) (2018-06-05b3). It was delivered with this version installed. I just upgraded the firmware to 2.02beta1(RTOS) (2018-08-12b5) but that didn't solve the problem
Thanks! Now I do Did not know that command existed. Was able to move the bed down and then home it. Ok, last question. The extruder motor stutters. Instead of a smooth movement to extrude or retract instead the movement is a stutter and the filament doesn't move. The hotend is brand new, nothing stuck in it and I can easily move the filament up and down by hand. The motors for x, y and z do not have this problem. Probably a setting i'm missing or are the motors wired incorrectly? Both extruders have the same issue.
If you remove the filament and just let it sit there, do the steppers make a buzzing noise? That would be a sign the stepper is miswired. Of course the Duet will not even try to turn the extruder steppers unless your temperature is the minimum set by M302. The default is supposed to be 160C
The steppers are not making any buzzing noise. I just checked with the fans off so I could hear it. Before I heated the extruder to 210 degrees so filament should come out. I've checked the connection and the extruder motors are wired the same way as the axis motors and those all work.
A stutter in stepper motors is most of the times caused by wrong wiring. I noticed that not all stepper motor wires are color coded the same. You can check it by measuring the resistance over the wires.
And if you don't have any multimeter ready, simply connect 2 wires of a motor and try to spin it by hand - if you connect 2 wires together that form a pair, the spinning becomes harder to do. So you can actually figure out how to connect a motor without knowing the wire color code Also what might be helpful for understanding:
What is the best way to wire the printcooling fan of the 2nd extruder on the duet WiFi? The duet is short of the 2nd regulated port, or am I missing the obvious? Thanks for your thoughts Karel
@Karel, is your machine an IDEX, or some other kind of dual extrusion machine? Duet WiFi has 3 controlled fan outputs. If you have separate print cooling fans for the 2 nozzles, then i suggest you use Fan 0 and Fan 2 outputs for them. Use Fan 1 output for the heatsink fan or fans. Use the F parameter in the M563 tool definition commands in config.g to define the fan number used by each tool.
It is a BigBox dual (version 1) So if it is no problem to wire 2 fans on 1 port, then your suggestion is the one to follow. Thanks Karel
Hi I know this is an old thread, but I have recently added a Duet Wifi with Panel Due 5 to my BigBox, mine originally came with the Raspberry Pi and so I want to continue using it, any ideas how I should connect/power the Raspberry PI as well as plugging the Pi into the Duets USB? I googled and saw mention of ground loops and various other possible issues, just wondered if anyone on here had done it and re-used the power converter that came with the BigBox Raspberry Pi?.
Hi Ray, I've not got a Duet, but I just plug my Raspberry pi 3 into a separate power strip, actually using a Google Home micro-usb power adapter. P.s. you might get more replies on the Facebook group, thats more active than the forum sometimes.
Cheers Russell, I will give that a got, I just finished the upgrade to the Hybrid Titan layout with a Duet Wifi and Panel Due, I also upgraded the bearings at the same time, it is a very different printer now, very quiet and really nice quality prints (although when it did use to work it produced nice prints as the original Kickstarter dual).
Hi Ray, how did you attach the 5-inch screen to the BigBox, did you design your own frame for it? I found models to attach the 4.3" and 7" screens, but no BigBox ones for the 5" screen.
Hi sorry only just seen this, yes I designed a mount for the display that uses the existing front screen mount fittings, message me if you are interested.
