Build Finished!!! Yeah... Now what!

Discussion in 'BigBox General Chat' started by Paul Begley, Jul 19, 2016.

  1. Paul Begley

    Paul Begley Well-Known Member

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    Well I’m pleased to say that after a week, consisting of a full day build and then most evenings, most of which were late nights, consuming too many Haribo (and other confectionary) i finally finished the build on Sunday. My main regret now was not keeping a diary and a creating a build blog. Oh well next time! :)

    This has been my first 3D printer, and on the whole the build has been great. Funny really, it’s a lot bigger than i was expecting! :) Firstly E3D have been brilliant, i had a cracked part and missing filiment which they promptly replaced. My x-axis idler carriage was cracked, i noticed this before inserting the bearing, however it seems ok with a bit of super glue. I guess i’ll get a replacement printed just in case it fails on me in the future.

    I had a few little niggles during the build, one of the terminal block screws on the Rumba board just spun, luckily it appears to be the thread on the screw, so was able to use an M2 hex head screw. need to fix that at some point

    One of the motor cables wasn’t crimped correctly. Luckily this was the Z axis Y cable, so easily removed and tested with the spare motors, 5 mins later it was all soldered and working.

    Although the build instructions were generally good, there were a few head scratching moments when it really paid to read ahead, get an idea of the context, then back track, the one thing i would say here is to take it slow, read it, understand it, check and make sure it fits in with the next few steps. some of the photos were clearly from other BB versions, or taken at other build stages.


    So when i completed the build on Sunday evening i tried the extrusion test, no matter what i tried i can’t seem to get an accurate 100mm. I was using nozzle 2, the direct Titan. maybe i’ll try again when i’ve played a little more.

    I then thought i’d try to print the supplied 3DBenchy. Well that was set up to use Nozzle 1which i hadn’t set up with filament. (I think it makes more sense to use nozzle 2 as the main one as this uses the titan, whats others thoughts on this?) at this point I thought i would load up Simplify3D, load the default Benchy model and a simple model i had created in Fusion. I realised the code this created was also using nozzle 1, I managed to change the default head, and tried to print. At first it looked ok, My simple model was printing ok, however nozzle 1 kept on wiping against the first few layers of benchy, causing a bit of a mess. After about 5 layer, i decided to stop it, i was partly impressed with what had been created though, a flat (ish) disk shape. At that point, I called it a night.

    After work on Monday, i thought I would give it another go. This time I thought I would use glue stick. Really not sure what i should use for what material at this point, but figured the issue I was previously having was due to the initial layers not bonding to the plate.

    So I proceeded to print the same file i had created previously. After 2 hours or so it was complete, and have to say that for a second print, I’m very happy with the results, see below


    IMG_5851.jpg IMG_5854.jpg

    Only slight issue i had was getting the things off, had to soak it in water for 30 mins.
    I used E3D everyday Black PLA, Nozzle 2 at 210 C and bed at 60C, standard settings I believe.

    So from a build and calibration point of view, what should my next steps be. I want to get the OctoPrint set up and functional, that looks fairly simple. What about Firmware. Looks like i have 1.1.0 RC 6 installed. Is that the recommended current version ? I’ll probably look at changing the direction of the knob, as it feels unintuitive, i know there are instructions floating around for that.

    Whats the best way to get the two nozzles adjusted I followed the method outlined in the wiki using the pin, but thats for X and Y alignment, what about Z. I guess manual is the only way, how ? tightening the nozzle? or using the grub screws how can i be confident that one or the other won’t hit the layer being printer and drag it around?

    What methods have others done for IR height adjustment? Using the belt and pushing down just seems too inaccurate. Was thinking of a possible future modified bracket for the sensor, using a long screw to raise/lower the sensor, thus providing more accurate control, but getting ahead of myself.....


    Anyway looking forward to using this over the next few weeks and reading about all the other new builds out there.....
     
    Alex Stevenson likes this.
  2. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    On the nozzle Z-height - use the grub screws, then give it a go and see if it works. Tweak. Rinse and repeat.

    IR height, I did it with the belt and then used the mesh bed levelling process to get the Z adjustment done. You shouldn't need to do much else.
     
  3. GrodanB

    GrodanB Well-Known Member

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    IR sensor has been set and forget for me...

    Bed leveling had been my latest issues. Very hard to get the bed level mechanically once I get one corner where I want it all other changes...

    But the more precise you get the bed mechanically the less the electrical bed leveling need to compensate which seems beneficial for the end quality of the print.
     

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