Building Chase's Titan Dual Direct Drive

Discussion in 'Guides, Mods, and Upgrades' started by TimV, Jul 27, 2016.

  1. TimV

    TimV Well-Known Member

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    As the thread of the current development has 42! pages, I decided to make a new thread out of my build.
    Hope this makes it all a bit more clear, and helps others to better understand what is needed etc.

    1. Order your Magnets : 6mm x 3mm (I bought N50's) no idea what really is recommended to take. Given that magnets are rated from N35 to N52 and are 'temperature' related, I would not build anything below N45 (100° capable)
    2. Download the files from Thingiverse :
      Chase's drawings: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1554356
      Extra Wide Nozzle wipe : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1641748
    3. Get your prints going. I'm currently printing in Edge 'Light', and as it's the 1st time I print with Edge, start small
      2x Titan_Dual_MotorMount_Idler_Bearing_Clamp_x2_rev2_oriented
      2x Titan_Dual_X_Carriage_Bearing_Clamp_metric_6x3_x2_rev2_oriented
      4x Titan_Dual_Magnet_Holder_Metric_6x3_x4_rev1_oriented
    4. Next steps, find out what needs to be printed in HighTemperature materials
    A picture of the 1st badge. It also has some spare parts from my BB7 :)
    [​IMG]
     
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  2. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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  3. TimV

    TimV Well-Known Member

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    A new update :

    Printed parts in Edge (all from 1st post and these)
    • 2x Titan_Dual_Extruder_Carriage_x2_rev4_oriented (but will need an 3rd one as I will have a 3mm v6 :) )
    • Titan_Dual_X_Carriage_rev6
    • Titan_Dual_X_Idler_rev3_oriented
    • Titan_Dual_X_Motor_Mount_rev3_oriented
    • AND!!!! 1x hybrid_x_axis_belt_tensioner, which comes from the hybrid drawing from the standard BB carriage
    Printed parts in ABS (E3D everyday - White)
    • Titan_Dual_Print_Fan_Shroud_rev6
    • Titan_Dual_IR_Sensor_Mount_rev1 (went will the default, extended version see post above)
    All a bit sanded and cleaned up, and all parts fit nicely. The bracket that keep the bearings attached to the carriage are slided in from the side. A very snug fit, but with a bit of cleaning, all fitted without forcing it.

    Next are the screws, I have just enough screws/nuts/... in the fitting leftovers from the BB Build, apart of some M3 Lock washers and M4x8 grub screws. Washers are easy to find, any hardware store or RC modelling shop (mine is a screw heaven), but the grub screws in 8mm are harder. But anyway, these can be recovered from the original build.

    Missed the postman today, so I have to wait until next week Monday morning to get my magnets.
    And I ordered some Pancake motors @Alex9779 recommended me this model : 17HS10-0704S
    They will arrive in 1 week. But this doesn't block me from having a go, around Monday noon-ish with Chase's design.

    O yes, forgot, I had already a Titan on my i3 (ordered 1st it was released, and had it 1 day later). So cannibalised this from the good old i3 and ... now it's heading for the eternal fields. It was possessed I think, so watch out that it doesn't come to hunt yours :)

    Greetz
    T.
     
  4. Steven Burns

    Steven Burns Well-Known Member

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    A
    And here I thought it was just me!! That bracket caused so many issues for me and was the hardest part of doing the upgrade from Pro to Hybrid. Printing this thing tonight!
     
  5. TimV

    TimV Well-Known Member

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    Next update :
    Finally the postman arrived with my magnets, so I can finish the build.
    • Fit the magnets in the Magnets holders (4x).
      Issue #1 : hole is to small, about 0,5mm too small. Reverse drill with a 6mm drill-bit to make the hole a slightly bit bigger, so the magnets still sit snug in the holders.
    • Fit the magnets in the Carriage Bearing holders (2x)
      Issue #2 : holes are too big, the magnets are not snug in the holder, so a bit a superglue will keep them in there place.
      Glue!
      No ways, don't be the same idiot as me, as check the magnets orientation before glueing them in. Damn too late for me, need to reprint my holders, but that's a good test for the new setup. (That's issue #3)
    • Fit a Spare nozzle and Titan (all recycled from my old decomm'ed i3 build) on a Extruder carriage.
      Issue #4 : It's a 3mm with an old block heater block and a thermistor (Semitec 100k), so ... need to recycle a heater block from the BB7 build (£11,5 for a replacement part btw)
    Live from the mancave!!!
    T.
     
  6. TimV

    TimV Well-Known Member

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    Big day today, switching to the new setup.
    So far, disassembly and reassembling the new parts is easy.
    Some details/tips/don't do the same stupid things as I did :
    • Do not pre-fit the bearings or the clamps, you'll need to take it apart again to get it mounted.
    • Loosen all screws of the Y-Axis Brackets (front and back)
    • The cable end of the motor for the X-axis, needs to face the front
    • Have some micro-connectors for the end-stops ready. Had to cut the endstop cable of the X-axis mount to avoid having to re-cable that entire wiring loom.
    More to come...
     
  7. TimV

    TimV Well-Known Member

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    Wiring loom redone (extruder side). Really would like to see some pictures of people that switched from Dual to Chase's, just to see how they routed the cables.
    Unsure if all is correctly done, but I was getting tired and my supply of beer in the mancave is also gone. Calling it a day and will continue tomorrow.
    Planning for tomorrow :
    • Recheck work from yesterday
    • Level nozzles vs fan and positioning
    • Flash firmware
    • Print?
    Turning off the light in the man cave.
    Greetz
    T.
    PS. 6h on the clock so far to do the convertion
     
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  8. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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  9. TimV

    TimV Well-Known Member

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    Thx @Alex9779, great help, as usual. Only missing picture is how to use the main cablestraps (those pillars above the IR sensor)
    New update on progress for the man cave :
    • Work yesterday seems, apart of mounting a motor upside down, all is ok. (so far)
    • Levelling the nozzles with the @Chase.Wichert original IR sensor mount seems impossible.
      • Mounting the longer IR sensor mount, as mentioned by @PsyVision seems to a better 'playarea'.
    • Flashed firmware and did immediately a full reset of the settings.
    • Created new profile for S3D and pre-sliced the good-old faithful Benchy.
    Some tips :
    • Following should be enter in the terminal (i.e. via Octoprint)
      • M92 Z400
        (eSteps for Z axis new model)
      • M92 E835
        (eSteps for Extruders 0,9°)
    • Screws for the Endstops needs to be replaced by M3x30. Because I haven't gotten my pancakes yet. Mommy didn't bake any yet, so ...No seriously, DHL just called me saying they are incoming, but they were missing the invoice for import taxes, lucky me it's under 75$ so no taxes have to be paid. (26$ +18$ transport for 3 pancakes)
    • Replenish the fridge with beer, Belgian boys can't think without it :)
    Off to the shop to get some more beer
    Later
    T.
     
  10. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    I can't take a picture of that because I removed them from my assembly because I decided not use them, so I didn't print them...
     
  11. pjr3D

    pjr3D Active Member

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    @TimV which firmware did you flash for the dual direct Titan? My build is nearly done with @Chase.Wichert mods and I will need to flash firmware soon, just need confirmation which :)
     
  12. TimV

    TimV Well-Known Member

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  13. pjr3D

    pjr3D Active Member

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    Thanks! I'll go get that one...

    Now I just have to establish why my Z-motors just vibrate and don't move (X and Y are fine). :/
     
  14. 3DogModeling

    3DogModeling Active Member

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  15. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    Assuming you have set the voltage correctly, I would suggest you swap the driver as I had this problem with the Y-axis and the driver was the problem.
     
  16. pjr3D

    pjr3D Active Member

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    As it turns out the problem was twofold:

    1) Z linear drive threaded rods were binding (one of them is bent like a banana :( other is OK-ish) so a lot of alignment fiddling later it was still not working so I took a look at ...

    2) The Z motors Y-cable. Two wires into one crimp is not ideal and I prefer a serial arrangement anyway for better torque so one modified Y-cable later and it all sprang to life and a new benchy has now entered the world.

    The left hand leadscrew still wobbles like mad (its arc almost touches the circumference of the hole in the upper support) so I guess I should talk to support about a new leadscrew to finally put this to bed. I also need to work out how to flash the firmware from the octopi ...

    Been fun though :)
     
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  17. TimV

    TimV Well-Known Member

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    New update :
    • Lesson #1, not all Nema17 motors are wired the same.
      Switched the Green and red wire around and changed the voltage to .28V (vRef).
    • Lesson #2 :Adjust the vRef
      If you use a Polulu A4988, rated current/spool = 0.7A for a 17HS10-0704S, so
      • 0.7 = vRef * 2.5 (which is 100% when using 1/16 steps)
        or vRef = 0.7/2.5 = 0.28V
    • Lesson # 3 : Adjust before trying
      And adjust this before trying, as you may blow up a stepper (which I may have done, and know for sure this evening)
    Or at least that's what I understood.

    Next things : Adjust the endstops and get the left? nozzle to sit on 0,0 and get leveling back on track.
     
  18. 3DogModeling

    3DogModeling Active Member

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    So TimV any update on your progress on this build?
     
  19. TimV

    TimV Well-Known Member

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    Yes, sorry, a brief update.
    After some off-time (too hot to even be able to print) I decided to return to the standard setup.
    As much as I like the Chase design, I feel it doesn't deliver enough benefit for my use.
    Biggest reason why I decided to go to this design was, 3mm printing (old stock and btw bamboo printing is only possible in 3mm)
    And that's in the meantime fixed on the default design, via 4mm OD and 3mm ID PTFE tube I received from a FiberOptic Welder guy, who had still some old splicebox materials he wasn't using anymore, You can guess 2x what it was :)
    The other reason was the loss of heigth, which I had less on the default design than on Chases design, hence I agree, it's still easier to use Chase's design to modify the height on the fly.
    Still I think it's a quick fix and the rootcause has still not been found nor tackled.

    I'll be starting a new threat for people willing to fix the rootcause instead of going to PEI sheets (which make me dazzle why they wanna go to these sheets and loosing the beauty of the original design, and still facing the same issues. Beats me completely.
    Or some changed to proximity sensors, which are temp sensitive, neither a good solution IMHO.
    A kind of feeler gauge still seems to be the best solution, but nobody has made one based on the orignal design as far as I have seen so far.
    Putting the IR detector on the bedside isn't neither a solution as the ABL function gets lost, one I like way more then the MBL function.

    More to come that's for sure, but under a different form.

    Regards,
    T.

    PS. E3D guys'n girls : Can you help us out please? It seems to be a design issue, a BB1.2 would have to take care of this issue. Please?
     

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