Can someone remind me how to re-calibrate the PT100 sensors? I think it was a PID autotune of sorts. My new replacement PT100 sensor wont stabilize at the desired temp. So it never comes out of "heating....." to start the print.
If you have Octopi there's a plugin: https://github.com/tohara/OctoPrint-Pidtune If you don't, the follow the "manual" method, connecting Simplify3d to the Rumba via USB: http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning
Depending on the firmware you are using you should find the PID Auto-tune option under LCD/Control/Temperature. Don't forget to save to memory after running it.
I was able to run PID autotune via the Octopi. and saved its results. Looks good so far, except half way thru a 45min part, the filament feed stopped due to the titan hobbed gear dug a wedge thru the filament. Whats the best way to stop that? The titan idle bar tension nut is not very tight.
One thing I find with E3D V6 in general (not just on the BB) is that if your retraction distance is too high then it causes a clog which results in the extruder skipping. Usually this will happen at a consistent part in the model where there are lots of retractions. Are you using stock S3D settings or something else. and what filament ?
I'm using RapetierHost as i hated S3D. For filament it's happened to all that I use... PLA, HiTempPLA, ABS, PETG. I'll look in the settings so see if i can adjust and lower retraction. My un-informed guess would be when the filament is retracted, then forward, the teeth slip and then dig and dig and dig.
Set your retraction to about1.5mm and no more than 2mm. What happens is that a long retraction drags the melted filament into the heat break tube where it solidifies and the filament jams against it, the hob then turns without moving the filament, hence the groove in the filament.