SOLVED Can't get the bed level

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by Duncan Chivers, Jul 25, 2016.

  1. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    BB Pro v1.1 with Titan and Octoprint (Pre-assembled in plywood) - RC6 firmware.

    Hi All,

    I'm having issues with a 'wonky' bed which I just can't seem to get level. I'll attach some photos below to show the problem, which is clearly with the left side of the bed, the right hand side seems to be lovely, and I get a lovely 'squish' of PLA on the first layer.

    What's the best way to sort this out? Is there a recommended method that I have overlooked? I have read a bit about mesh levelling, but this seems to relate to duals?

    Obviously having not built it myself I have skipped some of the processes that others will have had to do, so apologies if this is something really simple.

    Thanks in advance.
     

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  2. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    Tried doing a 'Level Bed' from the LCD in the hope that I would be able to do a mesh level, but it doesn't work - just seems to level in four locations and then gives up, I don't get an option to check the 9 points at all, turning the knob just adjusts the nozzle temperature.
     
  3. Sarah Nicholson

    Sarah Nicholson Well-Known Member

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    The official firmware uses auto levelling. If you want to use mesh levelling you need to install one of Alex's modified firmware versions. Assuming you have the hybrid version, I think this is the one you want. There is a very good guide to flashing the firmware on the Wiki with full instructions for various methods of updating.

    You may also want to double check the levelling of the PCB using the adjustable standoffs, ideally you want the bed to be as level as possible before the mesh levelling does its adjustments, so make sure something isn't out there.

    I'm struggling a little bit with this on my dual, but the way I have done it is to move the bed down about 100mm, put a 15mm set square in one corner of the bed pointing upwards, move the print head to the centre and then adjust the Y axis position until the front rod is over the end of the set square. Then I adjust the Z height so the rod doesn't quite touch the end of the set square and adjust the standoffs until I get to the point where I can barely get my thinnest feeler gauge between the end of the square and the rod, then repeat for each corner, using only the PCB standoffs for adjustment and not touching the Z axis controls. You need to be careful not to press on the bed or the rods while doing this. You could substitute the familiar piece of paper for a feeler gauge and any suitable object that can stand flat on the bed and give a good reference point.
     
  4. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Sarah, the rod adjustment seems to have helped a lot - I didn't want to just go ahead and to it in case there was a likelihood of messing something else up!

    I now have a completely different issue, which I noticed very slightly on my benchy print, where the Y axis is sticking and then jerking, which is sending the whole hot end off, making it print in the wrong place!

    Thanks for your help.
     

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