Cleaning Filament Usage?

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by Henry feldman, Mar 24, 2016.

  1. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    OK guys, I am bravely going to attempt printing Nefertiti tonight, and thought she deserves something better than clear PLA, so an changing over to Entwined (the hemp filament). Haven't tried using a cleaning filament before. My question is how does one use the cleaning filament. This was what I assumed you do, so let me know if true:

    1. Heat extruder #0
    2. Pull PLA back out once melted inside
    3. Insert 12cm of cleaning filament (from E3D)
    4. Extrude 10cm
    5. Thread in hemp filament
    6. Run the calibration 100mm extrude script on the card and make sure it dumps and starts extruding hemp (and check extruder steps)
    7. Print Nefertiti and enjoy the awesomeness
     
  2. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    I would print some small of your going to use a new filanent. Different filaments even differnt colors of the same material for the same manufacturer can have differnt behavious or diameters.


    So before you waste a ton of time and filament make sure it prints the way you expect.

    Also I don't use cleaning filament, I get fine results by pushing some of the new stuff through until in runs true. Some will also empoly the yank menthod but unless there is a clog issue or a wildly different melt temperature I find it's overkill.
     
  3. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    Yes, I was really planning on printing a small object prior to the Nefertiti... And the Entwined basically uses similar settings to PLA (they state to start 10 degrees cooler on the hot end, and bed at 45)
     
  4. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    I would probably bypass the cleaning if it was me then. It couldn't hurt but I find that just for a filament swap it's overkill myself.
     
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  5. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    Your list is OK Henry but, as Miasmictruth says, I would just go straight to the new filament. I always print a couple of test pieces with new filament, so this clears the filament path anyway. Be wary of not cleaning if you have used a filled filament before as this can leave fibres in the melt chamber and may cause issues but this is hearsay as I have not had experience with them myself. RichRap may have some views on this.
     
  6. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    OK, skipped cleaning, just extruded 200mm of filament, and printed this test square. The Hemp based Entwined is gorgeous!!! The picture does not do it justice! The color is more beautiful than the pic looks. And damn did this print nicely. Sharp edges, and smooth gradation (just whipped this up in OnShape as a test). Printed at 200C and bed 45 with 1.5mm layers. Kept extruder ratio at 0.9. Now the only thing I note is a slight peaking at the corner. Any idea which setting I need to tweak?

    [​IMG]
     
  7. JohnEsc

    JohnEsc Well-Known Member

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  8. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    My guess is that the corner peaking is just a combination of material and head speed. As you want to print in that material, try a slower speed first to see if that helps. Also, are you sure it't not just an optical illusion? i.e. are the edges actually straight even thought the pattern doesn't look so?

    Also, Nerfertiti probably doesn' have any sharp edges like this model, so you probably won't get this effect in the print anyway.
     
  9. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, she has no sharp edges at all. It was more academic, as I am trying to understand what each of the billion variables in S3D do... OK, so I put the piece against one of my 1-2-3-blocks from my CNC and it definitely has corner peaking as you can see

    [​IMG]
     
  10. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    This could well be a speed issue but I would be happy with this result. The change of direction at the corner creates this little bulge, possibly due to inertia in the system, so a slower speed may be the answer.
     
  11. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    Mike, is that the "default printing speed" in the "Other" tab in S3D? Right now that is 3000mm/min And what about coasting? X/Y axis speed is 4800mm/min
     
  12. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    Henry, my experience with S3D is minimal to date (really waiting until my BB is in my hands) but I would consider the "default printing speed" being lower, say 2500, is worth trying. @Alex9779 might have a view as his knowledge of S3D appears substantial.
     
  13. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    @mike01hu thank for the compliment! :D
    First @Henry feldman could you please talk in mm/s? I hate that calculation and the numbers are so huge... You can switch that in the options of S3D...
    Default printing speed is the normal speed for everything not mentioned in any other setting.
    For most of the moves you have special options with factors in % that change the speed in relation to the default speed.
    For example if the outline underspend is set to 100% the outlines are printed with the default speed. 50% means that the most outer outline is printed at 50%. Let's say you have 50mm/s default, 50% will be 25mm/s for the outer most perimeter. The second perimeter from the outside is faster, dunno exact how the calculation goes but the inner most perimeter is not at default but slower. Every perimeter to the outside is slower than the one before until the outer most has the calculated speed.
    X/Y axis movement speed is the travel speed, aka the speed the print head is moved when not printing...

    Coasting is something totally different from speed. Coasting means that the extraction of plastic is stopped before a line ends. This can be used to reduce the blobs which can appear when switching from one to the other perimeter as it reduces the pressure in the nozzle.
    If you have S3D and activate coasting you can see in in the layer view, the lines end early and you see gaps on each layer where the lines end.

    So your default is 50mm/s like mine. I normally use a outline underspend of 50%-80% depending on the quality and part shape.
     
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  14. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    I never understood why they defaulted to mm/min; it's a good thing they didn't decide to use metres/hour: 1m/hr = 3600000mm/s! :D:confused:
     
  15. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    THANK YOU! Pref has been set. I couldn't figure out why I had always heard speed in mm/s and S3D was in furlongs/years... But seriously, I was looking for that setting somewhere, but I didn't look in prefs, since 8-billion other settings are right in front of you! I am now off to buy a 0.004 Hogshead spool of PLA!
     
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  16. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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