Colorfabb HT first print

Discussion in 'Show off' started by Stigern, Apr 2, 2016.

  1. Stigern

    Stigern Well-Known Member

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    So, after some testing and failing I got my first successful print using HT filament from Colorfabb.

    Settings used:
    260C on extruder
    120C on bed
    UHU stick on bed

    0.3mm layers, 0% on fan. 80% FR.

    20160402_065009.jpg 20160402_065003.jpg

    I'm guessing stock parts for BB Pro are in ABS? So this should withstand more heat.
     
  2. Stigern

    Stigern Well-Known Member

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    20160402_080750.jpg

    Second print came out nice too :)
     
  3. Rob Heinzonly

    Rob Heinzonly Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for sharing this, printing the sidefan holders with a more durable material is on my to-do list. :)
     
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  4. Stigern

    Stigern Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I'll keep these in spare, until I see deformation on the stock ones. But I'm not 100% sure HT is better than ABS at heat resistance. Maybe someone else knows?
     
  5. Falc.be

    Falc.be Well-Known Member

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    thats what the tech specs say

    I don't understand why ABS is still used, there is better, easier and healthier on the market
     
  6. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    I think E3D told somewhere before release in some QA session that the parts around the hotends are printed with "material X" which should be temp resist as ABS but easier to print less warp and so on...
     
  7. Sarah Nicholson

    Sarah Nicholson Well-Known Member

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    How is HT to print with? Those prints certainly look pretty good. I need to print some things that will withstand regular dishwasher temperatures, and anything that's less of a pain than ABS would be ideal for that.
     
  8. Stigern

    Stigern Well-Known Member

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    Warping on HT vs ABS I'm not sure of yet, only had it happened to one part, but that was printed with 110C on bed instead of 120. I think I need to print larger parts before I can give any good answer to that.

    EDIT:

    Did another print, this time larger. No warping so far =)

    20160402_234022.jpg 20160402_234018.jpg 20160402_234013.jpg

    Also ran it at 100% FR no problems.
     
    #8 Stigern, Apr 2, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2016
    Sarah Nicholson likes this.
  9. SoBaldrick

    SoBaldrick Well-Known Member

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    Hi, like the Prints, but can you tell me the settings you used to get the brims around your prints, if you used Simplyfi3d
     
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  10. xyzaxyz

    xyzaxyz New Member

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    Hi, I know the topic is old, but I just registered this moment to be able to view the images above - really nice.

    I use a brim like the brim on the pictures, my settings in S3D are:
    Unter the "Additions" Tab check "Use Skirt/Brim"
    Skirt Layers: 3 (I print with ABS, normally with a first layer height of 0.2mm - a one layer brim was very hard removable, with 3 layers i can remove the whole model including brim with slightly hitting it with a spatula + rubber hammer)
    Skirt Offset from Part: 0,55mm (My Nozzle is 0.4mm, my first Layer Width is 145%, this is just the perfect value for me with ABS - fuses just very little, but increases the footprint of the part a good bit so it doesnt come to warp that easy)
    Skirt Outlines: 10

    Looks like this for me:
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    But like the thread starter, I don't really know if HT is better in all knowns...
     
  11. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

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    Y
    Your prints look good. I've printed maybe 8 kg of HT and I'm a big fan for temperature resistance and toughness. The downside of course is the stringing like all polyesters. For what it's worth I almost always prefer a skirt to a brim. Both are good for letting the flow even out and giving time for blobs to fall off the nozzle, but I rarely need the extra adhesion from the brim since HT is pretty low warpage.
     
    #11 Ephemeris, Jun 11, 2017
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2017
  12. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    Skirt = brim ?

    Do you mean "raft"?
     
  13. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

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    A brim connects to your print like the brim of a hat. A skirt has a gap between itself and the print. It doesn't help with adhesion but it does let the extruder finish priming, may get rid of dark and crunchy stuff that's been cooking in the nozzle, and gives the nozzle time to shed itself of any blobs that are hanging on the exterior of the nozzle.

    In some of the slicers you can make the skirt many layers tall as a sort of windbreak. I assume that's mostly as a desperate measure with ABS when warping is out of control.
     
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  14. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    I stopped using a brim or skirt, instead adding a separate small, square, 1-layer-thick model into the mix which will be first to print (moved around depending on print options). This small print gets everything primed and lets me adjust with babystepping to get the perfect nozzle height (which often seem to need to be slightly tweaked for different layer heights. I can't do it for every model as, with vases you can's have two models (i'm thinking I probably could actually, could be a bad assumption). Anyway, just wanted to share my alternative method. Brims and skirts can help for some models for sure, but seems for me to be a rarity; i.e. models with very small surface area on the bed.
     

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