Colorfabb XT print setting suggestions

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by Stian Indal Haugseth, Jul 18, 2016.

  1. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

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    Hi,

    I have made some good XT prints on this same nozzle before but now I'm not sure what's wrong. I have started to print @Chase.Wichert DDT parts with @Alex9779 S3D profile for XT.

    I get heavy stringing and blobs/artifacts along the part seam where the stringing is worst.

    Attached a zip of gcode.

    Update: Photos in next post.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

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  3. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Ewwww sorry no idea... But from my own experience I try to print small parts with XT individually.
    I have the impression that XT tends more to string if it is longer kept in the melting zone and multiple retractions happen.
    That is mostly the case when printing multiple small parts: each line printed is very short so the retraction happens often and the filament stays a very long time in the nozzle because of the small amounts needed between every retraction...
     
  4. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

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    Well. Then my next step will be a single part to see if this does anything.
     
  5. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

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    Thats not it!

    Printed single part now and for the heck of it I just tested your profile generation. This print is with XT med/slow. Only change was manual 0,4mm width and I added 5 deg on bed because of sag. Starting to wonder if a few (failed) prints with a CF filament can damage a brass nozzle? Or if I should try a cleanout.

    IMG_20160720_072023.jpg IMG_20160720_072042.jpg IMG_20160720_072109.jpg
     
  6. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Could be...
    Thinking about it what has to happen if you retract and change the position, that is when stringing happens, is that you wanna cut off the filament flow. For this to happen good the profile of the nozzle tip has to be in a shape to support this to happen. So maybe if the inner edge is too round the flowing filament is not cut...

    Just a hint, CF filament is called very abrasive and normally used with hardened or stainless steel nozzles...
     
  7. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

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    Hmm... yeah. I would not believe a few prints, maybe max of 10 hours should render a brass nozzle useless but I think I'll get some steel ones from now on. Don't want to change nozzle every time I test a abrasive filament.

    See if I can find another 0,4mm nozzle as I believe I should have recieved 2 of all the nozzles.
     
  8. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    @mike01hu I think uses only the hardened for everything now, I hate nozzle switching too with the V6, everything gets loose if you remove the nozzle and you have to grip the heater block with a plier, not always possible when the hotend is mounted because of the fan shroud...
     
  9. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

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    Just ordered a bunch of hardened ones now.
     
  10. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    So money seems no issue :D
     
  11. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    @Alex9779 is right, I use only the hardened nozzle and performance is consistent across the filaments I use, (XT CF20, Edge and PLA). I currently only use the 0.4mm nozzle on the standard hotend as this suits the tasks I perform.
     
    Stian Indal Haugseth likes this.
  12. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

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