I was ready to throw my Hemera in the corner until I could figure out what to do... But my Box was opened by the shop (3d Printer Superstore in Vic Australia - All seals broken - Very disappointed it arrived like this) so I thought maybe I got a faulty unit? I'm not inexperienced with Electronics or hacking a printer but I bought the bowden unit, fit it 2 nights ago and 48 hours later I'm thinking of going back to the original... Why Bowden? because my Ender 5 has been VERY reliable out of the box. A glass"bed" mod was all i had to do to get pretty damn good results. I didnt what to touch what wasn't "broke" such as the firmware etc as that can lead to more dramas (which it did...) But I do want to try out PETG and other cool filaments so I know the stock was not going to cut it. I have a Tevo Tarantula (Nicknamed Satan as it really is a piece of garbage out of the box) which I have modded with E3d stuff before with no dramas. So Process and Findings below: I have tried using Stock 1.1.6.1 from Creality and modified the ESteps to 409 as per guide. Flipped my machine over and dropped the VREF to .490-.5 as per Vref instructions for Ender Creality boards. Also decided to check the Vref on the other pots and glad I did, on was at .62 instead of .58 LOL... Ran the Extruder and measured we were pretty close to 100mm, if anything came in at 98mm pushed through. Didnt worry too much about calibrating the Esteps at this precious stage as this was pretty close. Chucked in some ABS, Bed to 105 and 230 hotend (my default ABS profile) :/ At that point over extrusion to the Max... Cant get past 3rd layer without garbage or Model grab... So off to Marlin 1.1.9 and someone elses config... Changing their steps to 409. Measured - Perfect 100mm - Not bad! Print and OverExtrude... Anyway, after reconfiguring a hundred different things, I was left issuing M92 commands and throwing a stick in the mud to see if it grabs. Got E220 to print, model came out at half height... The old crow went Faaaaark... Over to the Z axis and the steps in the default firmware is set at 400 which apparently is the old Ender screw. This makes sense as well to double it to 800 as my one successful print at E220 was half height... I am now printing a clamp for my E3D V6 which is now looking fine with M92 E387.5 (smack bang for 100mm) Z800 (for the extended leadstop). i havent slept since Friday because I can't handle having electronics beat me... I think I have finally won! The trouble we have is that we need to know our printers better but with no baseline (or one that is not exactly well defined) it is hard to determine issues. I agree with some posts that the instructions are a bit cack but there is enough there to "get going", it's all the other garbage associated with Creality we have to dig through (and trying to get the right Syntax so Google knows what we want LOL). I'll see if I can take some photos and bang up a guide of what I went through and the checks to do as half the videos miss this one little critical step which can leave a beginner frustrated, or a more experienced user scratching their head, especially if they cant get through a full print to "measure" so to speak - Calibration circles look ok-ish until you pull out the digi calipers, mine need batteries so maybe I would've figured this out sooner... On another note, I've added a poll to see if I'm the only idiot that bought the bowden (I thought it came with the Direct Drive M4 Thing to work with my Volcanos or V6 hotends at a later stage, but no its seperate $25 purchase unfortunately)... i wanted to convert to DD later on when I was ready for the 'exotics'. i hope this helps someone! ***EDIT*** Can I get a mod to change the Title to Include Hemera - Whoops!
Also having Ender 5 install issues but using v.1.1.5 board. E steps set correct. I fixed the wiring loom to ensure the pins 3 & 4 on the motor are swapped to match Hemera data sheet. I also set the vref to 1.19v via the E set screw. I just get grinding and no filament will load. It would be great to find a comprehensive Ender 5 install. I have been going off of Ender 3 data which should be pretty close to the same but most don't cover vref or the wiring change on the motor so I am skeptical of their accuracy. I ended up just ordering a duet2 board in hopes of having a greater level of support.
Hi Mitch - Are you sure you needed to swap the wires around? I managed to plug in with no swap immediately and no dramas. I mustve missed the thing about checking the leads LOL as it looked fine to me when I plugged it in... It seems there are different revisions of the board and the plug reversed may only be a batch of them. I dunno. I have a Creality Silent board arriving later today (I ordered a few weeks ago) and if its a 'legit' creality, I'll take a quick look and advise if I find anything as it is going on my Ender 5. I havent done the Math on the VREF's yet, to work out Stock vs Required on the 2208 drivers; or even if there is much to perform, I'll just run it stock and see what voltages it throws out before we move up to modification. 1.19 sounds a little up there and I also noted that the pot is logarithmic i.e. a small turn increases quite substantially so I'd personally be trying to get it back to .78 (by mem I think thats stock) and beginning adjustments live from there. I dont think we can get a one stop guide (I'm starting to write one with my experience) cause the variables involved may make it run into a war and peace novel! But I do agree, I had alot more luck when I threw the guide out the window and started to use common sense. I started this thread to hopefully concisely put the finer variables the Ender 5 has got, without factoring in the many mods we can do to it!
JahNix, Thanks for the reply. I haven't been able to get past this issue. I posted about it here: https://forum.e3d-online.com/thread...hemera-install-questions-grinding-noise.3584/ If you look at my post I have a data sheet for the stock creality stepper. compare that to the Hemera stepper and the two are definitely different when it comes to pins 3&4 on the motor. Given that the two motors are wired differently I don't see how a stock cable could work but at this point I am willing to try anything so long as it doesn't cause damage to my board. For Vref you may be correct. I can't seem to find anyone who has provided any real detail on vref calculations for the TMC2208 on the creality v1.1.5. I do know that they are not connected via UART/SPI so you can't just mod them with G code. You need to adjust the pot. I don't mind trial and error but right now I am getting this grinding sound that just doesn't sound right. If you have yours working, would you mind posting the exact pin wiring from mainboard to the motor that works for comparison?
My motor sounds just like this video: https://forum.e3d-online.com/threads/hermes-hemera-stalling.3570/ However, the poster had a wiring issue as he didn't swap pins 3&4 on the motor. He seems to report good operation after wiring correctly. I have double checked my wiring and mine sounds like this when wired "correctly" (post swap pins) and does nothing when wired with unmodified cable. After reading everything posted here: https://forum.e3d-online.com/threads/hemera-stops-extruding.3502/page-2 It seems the end result is that the creality v1.1.5 board just won't work for the Hemera. However, you would think all of the Ender 3 / 5 installs would have reached the same conclusion. Personally, I think I have two issues. The first is the limited current on the motherboard and the second I am suspicious of a cracked gear that most have been talking about. I have a Duet2 Wired Ethernet board coming. The next issue will be figuring out where to mount the Duet2 because I think it is larger than the creality mainboard and will exceed the room available in the metal case. I don't really like the idea of a plastic enclosure for the mainboard. Suggestions welcome. Next, I am going to get some pictures of the gears to check for damage. For Vref I believe 1.19v is correct. Can anyone confirm/correct that value for TMC2208? The Duet Hemera guide for tuning Vref is a bit disappointing. The guide starts out saying that it will show you how to tune for three of the most popular stepper drivers and TMC2208 is one of them. Oh perfect! Then it goes on to explain two of the drivers and for the TMC2208 it just says go check the data sheet. hmm, OK. Not much of a guide. https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/05+-+E3D+Hemera+Current+Adjustments/143
Hi Mitch, I Didnt use the Cable that came with it LOL... I just plugged and play - But I am using it as Bowden not Direct. My "silent" board is now arriving tomorrow so when that does, I'm happy to take some photos/videos and share. Totally agree about the 2208 in the guides... I dont have the things (yet) and I thought it was wierd that the guide would not mention them... I'll report back more in detail when I hit this problem with my new board... I dont blame E3D necessarily for this though. 3D Printing isnt like buying a standard HP driver full of bloatware... But I do sit at the top of quite a large and chunky business to form the opionion that after all the videos I have seen, there seem to be alot more resources in "admin" and "creative" spaces than engineering and operations. What "grinds my gears" was that the guide merely said "set to 409 steps" based on 16... Like WTF does that mean? At least give me a link as to how you came to the conclusion of 16 steps or 409 FFS LOL Some ideas after I had a read through your post... Totally loosen the tension on the extruder (Spin the nut) and manually push filament through... No Jams? Cool. Again, loosen the tension and let the machine spin the motor, can you see which way the gears spin, if at all? If it still clicks with no tension or filament then open up and check the gears. I have had clicking happen to me too at first, but that was when the VREF was .78 or something and my tension was miles too high. It also clicks from time to time with the flow speed being too high - I am pushing through the Stock hotend and maybe not hot enough... Try pumping in this gcode after warming up to past melting point to ensure its not speed/flow related... G1 E100 F100 What are you doing when it clicks? Running a print? Loading/Unloading Filament? Just looking for anything else we can drill into... Something else - I run the Marlin 1.1.9 Firmware, your using TH3D. I did handcraft from the Marlin Vanilla Config and the Creality 1.1.6.1 Config just about 1:1 (and learnt ALOT about Marlin), but had to google around for the Z-Stop setting as my Creality Firmware obviously didnt match my Ender 5 which was 1.1.6.3 by memory. I'd suggest taking the original firmware and doing the same unless you have a heap of mods... Attached an iPad Photo of it mounted on the E5 now - Note the stock cable... I need to print a new over the top mount... but it works... I really hope something above here helps even a little bit... Best Wishes Dude - I'll keep my eyes on the forums tonight in case you find anything, or I have another idea...!
OK - So I'll add my next update in case it helps... My new Creality 1.1.5 Board arrived today (ordered before I installed the Hemera so not bought to 'fix' it) and cracking open my Ender 5 I found I had board 1.1.4 - now I presume I have a newer ender 5 as my firmware does not match firmware on their website due to the Z mods and a few other tiny things I found when I ran the file compare (CR Config vs Marlin). Here is the new board, 1.1.5 - I thought I might just plug in the screen and power and see what is installed before I start to unplug and modify firmwares... I like it when things work mostly out of the box... Opening the Ender I found I have a 1.1.4: Doing what a good maker does and googling other install guides to see if there is anything I need to check or kep wary of I found several posts that some 1.1.4's have the 2208's installed. i.e. If this is correct, then I have incorrectly programmed Marlin, and my VREF to .49 meaning, if we (Mitch) are in the same boat, then I'm really undervolting and really should be getting the clicking... Or I'm just super-mega lucky... I will report back further on this as I progress - Horrible amount of work in front of me and I'm reasonably cautious when it comes to installing anything from china (quality control for those innuendo assuming presumptuous necks).
So I quickly plugged her into the PC (for power as well) and it has 1.1.8 Marlin. I have just checked the stock VREF voltages which are different from the 1.1.4 board (obviously the different drivers): X = 1.139 Y = 1.140 Z = 1.124 E = 1.356 I've found multiple ways to calculate Vrefs for the 2208... This Git: https://github.com/superjamie/lazyweb/wiki/3D-Printing-TMC22xx-Quick-Guide Suggest 1.33 (Motor Current) * 1.3 (2208) = 1.729 I'll chuck the board in, warm it up and see what happens... I can mount the thing so I have access underneath reasonably easy enough... or I may delay real work further and dismantle the base LOL... Interestingly, I just did another forum search (sanity check) for Hemera 2208 and yeilded only my post... I would've expected a 2208 to be a 2208 - Maybe the ambiguity of the Hemera Vref guide gives us a bit of a clue: Set A4988 this set DRV8825 that, TMC2208, check the datasheet... Are the various flavours of the 2208 really that different no one has a standard baseline to work with? Is the chip that uncommon?
Sorry Mitch... Plugged in and left at stock... Ran usual G1 E100 F100 to extrude nice and slow after warm up and we got flow. Changed the steps M92 E387.5 Went for a Jolly Roger and had the Z Step problem again Doh! E92 Z800 and it look like I have a VERY quiet printer and soon to have one Jolly Roger in green pla I left the Vref around the 1.355 mark - I'll keep checking the temps on the Hemera...But overall still feels like cold steel in room temp. I'd love for more experienced engineers to pipe in and provide better specs if they are required... Now thats all sorted, I'll look at getting rid of the stock hotend and putting in a V6 I have here ready and waiting, already screwed into a carriage ready to go LOL...
JahNix, I was under the impression that the stock cable would not work and that the stock motor and the Hemera had pins 3 & 4 swapped. The first image is the stock motor. Notice the winding pairs are pins (1&4) (3&6). Below you will see the Hemera windings also show pairs (1&4) (3&6). ???
I notice the picture says Creality 42-10 My old Extrude motor is a Creality 42-40 if that makes a difference... Is your motor the same? I dont know if there is any difference and that might be your dramas...
So I decided to pull apart the stock Creality Hotend and Mount and fit my 24v E3D V6 now I have a bit more experience playing with Marlin. Up until this stage I was using the stock firmware on the board, with a modified Z Step and Extruder E92... Everything plugged in stock, and similarly, because I have not idea what the stock TMC2208 Vref are for the stock motors, I left that all as the board came. It was Marlin 1.1.8, and I had already preconfig'd a Marlin 1.1.9 setup, so I went in and set the temp thermistors etc for the V6 and I came across the stepper settings #define Z_DRIVER_TYPE A4988 and read about changing it to TMC2208, which I did but got a compile error due to a missing stepper library, which I downloaded, and more errors to debug through... Marlin suggests that without defintion, it defaults driver to A4988 so I commented back out, compiled and uploaded expecting to be in your shoes... PID Tune, (M303 E0 S230 C8), Check M503, Store M500 and check again M503... It moves around, it homes, and it extrudes. Heres my Lo-Res Quick Print Test Cube: i cant help but feek the clicking is because you have the reversed wires... Did you try without? See the bundle on the right in my pic, thats the loom that came with the Hemera bundled up. Maybe they mean to swap the plug on that? I cant help there cause I'm not using it LOL! I can say the Temp on the Hemera is definetely lower than the X axis steeper so I dont think I'm doing anything negative. Maybe the schematics your looking at for the creality are out of date? Or maybe our boards are different... Next time I have the thing apart I'll check if I can see a board revision number...
It's very likely there is no difference indeed. The stepper motors on my Creality machine have their coil connections wired exactly the same as the Hemera stepper. So the stepper cables that came standard on my machine have the middle two wires swapped as well on the stepper connection side. It's easy to visually verify this. In this case, you don't have to change anything, and the standard cable as well as the E3D provided cable is plug and play with the Hemera. And on the mainboard side, as far as I've seen to date, pins 1 and 2 always power one coil pair and pins 3 and 4 the other. This arrangement seems to be much more of a standardisation amongst manufacturers.
