DUAL Head Leveling and Flash issue

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by Thomas Kamsker, May 16, 2016.

  1. Thomas Kamsker

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    Hello
    i just finished (2 Days ago ) my BIG BOX with dual head and i did everything due to the Manual and the input at this forum

    Issue 1 )
    it seems that the system doesn't "remember" the bed leveling values
    So i thought updating is an good idea

    I do Arduino development so everything is set up according http://forum.e3d-online.com/index.php?threads/firmware-flashing-guide.708/

    it should work with Arduino 2560 Board
    i can compile everything but at upload i get an timeout ?
    Have seen that but when i try to use the USB without the 24V Power supply it says system is drawing too much energy and disables my USB (ah btw i use a mac for working windows for playing )

    so i switched then to the windows partition
    and followed all the steps again it connects it compiles it does upload but at the end the Board (so far i only used Ramps 1.4 and arduino boards ) reboots but stays in old version

    so do i overcome that ?

    issue 2) Bed leveling at dual
    i have now played around with the bed it is level i fixed it that way that the left side is because of washers higher then the right side (if you sit in front )
    but still the 2nd nozzle is higher as well even without that bed alignment but somewhere at the first level somewhere it hits the print and moves it across the bed

    does anyone have an idea for my 2 little issues ?

    i will now remove the 2nd brass nozzle to at least print in single head config.
    thx so much thomas

     
  2. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

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    There is a step after the 9 point levelling process, to save the settings, I remember the instructions saying the Rumba will beep but nothing shows on the screen.

    Before I did the 9 point levelling (but after the stage where you manually turn the two lead screws) I levelled the bed manually using a fixed length gauge between the from X smooth rod and the bed, (by moving the X-carriage back and forth in the Y direction) so the bed was level within a couple of thou (excepting any unevenness of the glass itself, fixed by the final 9 point leveling)

    There is a process with a pin stuck to the bed to make sure the two nozzles are the same height. Of course this may be out if the bed isn't level.
     
  3. Rob Heinzonly

    Rob Heinzonly Well-Known Member

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    As for issue 1: did you power on the printer before flashing the board ? You shouldn't get the error about the too much energy when the printer is powered.
     
  4. Stefan

    Stefan Well-Known Member

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    How much xp do you have with 3D printers?
    If you do not have much as I do, I think it is the best option to start with one nozzle to get into it then with time work your way to two... just my 2 cents
     
  5. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    For issue 2, some thoughts ...

    There are two grub screws either side of the place where the heatsinks go into the x-carriage. A picture of this area might be helpful for diagnosis; i.e. the relatively amount of the heatsink that goes into the x-carriage. The grub screws are supposed to be used to get the height of the two nozzle tips level.

    If you have your bed as level as you can get it, put your level on the bed beneath the hotends. Use the grub screws to try to get a better level of the nozzle ends.

    Finally you'll probably still be a little off; reality is tough:). What I do is
    • Get the two nozzles as close to the bed as possible.
    • Disable steppers
    • Manually tweak the lead screws to improve the levelling
    • Move the print head around the bed.
      • You don't necessarily need the height above the bed to remain constant, but you do want the height of both nozzles to be the same distance from the bed.
      • Tweak the leadscrews as you go to get things as good as possible
    • Re-auto-level from the LCD
    • Save
    You can actually unlevel the bed deliberately to have one print head only printing. The machine will happily print on a very unlevel bed after mesh bed levelling. If your printing something slimish - orient it to prevent the second head from passing over the print as an extra safety measure.
     
  6. Thomas Kamsker

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    Hi
    thank you for the fast input i have 5 years 3d printing experience and i own an Shapercube 2.x which i graded up to ball bearings a Prusa I3 and a XBOT155 which lead to this dual head printer ;)- i do CNC machines (lathes and mills ) and having 30 years of development experiences maybe it is save to say i have some experience ,..
    But it looks like an Software issue i did the update to RC6 (from a link here in the forum ) adjusted the config.h to dual head and here it works

    for dual head i removed the nozzle of the 2nd head and start with 1 head till i know what the limits of my build are.
    i have the bed leveld around 0,45 mm from all corners i don't know if that os ok for a dual head.

    i have a spring loaded setup from my shaper cube which levels less than 0,1mm dial gauge measured so i might do that on that printer as well if necessary .
    And i take the advice need to be exactly same height i read that the 2nd should be higher ? so now i gain the speeds i can achieve then i adjust both nozzles exact same height ,.
    Thank you so much
    thomas
     
  7. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

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    I think the second nozzle (wrong ... its the left that is set higher) is set higher in the build just for safety, and then adjusted to be as close as possible to the same height as the first (left hand) as below extracted from the build WiKi

    http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/BigBox_Printer_main_assemblies:_Step_By_Step_Assembly_Process

    Installing the HotEnds.

    "Note: When tightening the grub screws try to make the tightening as even as possible between the front and rear grubs, too much on one grub could cause the HotEnds to be positioned at and angle. You will also need to make sure the left nozzle is slightly higher than the right. This is done to make the nozzle alignment process in the commissioning stage a little easier. "

    This is the opposite of what I thought, but the end result in the "commissioning stage" is that both are adjusted to the same height by moving the right and nozzle up using the grub screws.
     
  8. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    I think the second nozzle (left nozzle, on V1.0 and v1.1) is set higher because you can adjust the right much easier. On a V1.0 box you really can't reach the back grub screw when the IR is mounted. On a V1.1 it is possible but also not easy to find it...
     
    mike01hu likes this.
  9. Dr Jeep

    Dr Jeep Well-Known Member

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    I assume your Mac is happy talking to other arduino boards ? I know I had to mess about a bit with Yosemite to get the ftdi drivers to play nicely but I don't know if those fixes are helping me upload to the BB or not
     

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