IN DEVELOPMENT Dual Volcanoes

Discussion in 'Guides, Mods, and Upgrades' started by Spoon Unit, Mar 25, 2016.

  1. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Just been through the laborious process of switching over both heads to volcanoes. Now I'm stuck.

    Firstly, there's no guide relating to fitting the volcanoes on the BB. Similar to mounting the standard nozzles, I've got the broadest flat part of the heater block facing forward. It seems quite possible to mount it 90 degrees to that, though this looks like it would present more of the head block to the tornado from the part cooling fans. (Hoping for a yes/no on this setup from @Greg Holloway). This uncertainty is not the main issue though.

    Secondly, I cannot lower the IR sensor mount as far as the nozzle, as described in printer commissioning. I've lowered it as far as I can, and when running an auto home, the bed just keeps rising after connecting with the nozzle (thanks to @Chase.Wichert for giving me the drill point for the stop button).

    Until, I can lower the mount or raise the nozzles, I seem to be completely stuck. Will post a picture shortly in case it helps.
     
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  2. Greg Holloway

    Greg Holloway Administrator
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    @Spoon Unit There are no documents at this time. The IR Sensor should go down far enough though?
     
  3. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for responding so quickly @Greg Holloway. This is how it looks:

    [​IMG]

    That's with the IR sensor on the absolute lowest position. AutoHome doesn't stop.
     
  4. Greg Holloway

    Greg Holloway Administrator
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    Hmmm, I'll see if I can model up some longer forks on the IR Sensor. In the meantime G92 is your friend.
     
  5. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Are you able to tighten in the heatsinks from the set screws any more?
     
  6. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

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    I have found in general that both the fans and the IR sensor mounts need a little TLC as they don't move smoothly even with the screws loose. If I remember I will get the WiKi edited to say fettle both the fan mount and the X-Carriage part at the assemble stage, and check that they move smoothly. Is it possible that this is preventing the IR from moving fully ?
     
  7. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Will read up on that. Thanks.
     
  8. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    I don't think so Mike. This is after the full install, with the nozzle full tightened after getting to heat. Or perhaps you're talking about the grub screws at the top to pull them up into the head a fraction? It really does like like I'm only about 1mm away from being functional. I'll tr to get a picture of how they're pushed in at the top. So far, I don't think I ever cleaned out those holes, but have been running fine for some time.
     
  9. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    The fans move up and down fine, as does the IR mount. The fans are not fully at the bottom here, but the IR will go no further. It look like 4mm extra on the forks would have done it. The X carriage I never needed to scrape. I'm not 100% clear on what fully seated and screwed heatsinks should look like. I'll get a picture of mine.
     
  10. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Here's the heatsink position in the X-Carriage. Anyone know if this is as far as it goes?

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    @Greg Holloway. OK - G92. I see where that's used to also reset the extruder within the purge system. If I switch to G92, I'm assuming I have to lose G28 commands across the board too? Or perhaps I need to modify it to a G28 X Y? Yep - I reckon that's probably the ticket. Let's see.
     
  12. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    I've had another idea which looks interesting at first sight. A business card is enough extra width on the bed to trigger the IR. There really must be only about 0.1 to 0.2mm in it, making me wonder if perhaps switching from square to hex nuts on the IR sensor might give me that extra touch. But the business card on it's own could be OK for AutoHoming. With that, I should be able bed level (we'll see if I need to move the card around with that. And then potentially I could be ok for now, just sacrificing that small spot on the bed for the autohome. Thoughts?
     
  13. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Bed levelling just rammed the dump bucket wiper, even on it's lowest setting. Solution seems to be to loosen off the screws, allowing the dump bucket bracket to tilt forward a little, thus lowering it. The relative positions of the bottom of the volcano-fitted head and the bucket wiper are fixed, so no amount of bed positioning could fix this. This makes me wonder whether I've got something else completely wrong here, as neither Richard Horne nor Chase Wichert complained about the dump bucket in their switch to volcano.
     
  14. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    So, I now switched out the small piece of card for a thinner even bit of electrical insulation tape, so it remains in position, but it looks as though it's actually seeing the bed now from it's lowest position as I've got the position of the tape set for post-autohome and I'm sure it's not seeing it first during auto home. Maybe a sleep has done it good. Nonetheless, there will still need to be a guide on setting up the volcano, as you can't use the non-volcano commissioning process of lowering the sensor mount to the level of the nozzle without also modifying the mounting points down about 4mm. The dump position remains an issue with the original holes if you want a completely solid setup, but I have the feeling that the loose setup I have will be fine.
     
  15. Kick2box

    Kick2box Well-Known Member

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    I guess you could lift your heatsink. Made a photo of my dual, distance between upper rib and plastic approx. 1mm. IMG_0372.JPG
     
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  16. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Thanks @Kick2box. There's clearly a little more play there. Thanks.
     
  17. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    It's all up and running and my word. What a sight it is to behold. The sheer amount of material it puts out is just scary.

    Current setup is
    Left Nozzle - 1.2mm volcano
    Right Nozzle - 0.6mm volcano (will have to order a 0.4mm)

    As you can see, I've got my heat blocks on left-to-right rather than front-to-back and so far, I'm very pleased with the cooling situation from the part fans. Pre-cooling fan I was worried during PID tuning, but when that part fan came on, my temps began to lock into place. I hit 80% fan at layer 24 and it's been completely stable since then:

    [​IMG]
    1. I'm tuning the PID manually after autotune as the graph isn't flattening out.
    2. Job submitted. Temp rises to 225 for layer 1. Some quick adjustments with flow rate here while I'm laughing at how much comes out of a 1.2mm nozzle.
    3. I think I go back to 205 for layer 3, so here at point 3 we're on about layer 12 or so when I hit 60% fan
    4. Around layer 84, fan at 80% since layer 24. Rock solid temp.

    Lesson for me. Tune the PID with the fans on the speed you'd like to get them running at.
     
  18. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    @Greg Holloway, could you and Sanjay have a think about how to purge the nozzle for dual printing with Volcanoes? I'm presuming the existing purge script was built with care for the length of the brass nozzle in total and, despite the request for information about the thought process, and the teaser that we might have some information around MWRRF, so far there's still no detail on how we should think about it.

    Could I assume that if we needed 14mm retraction with the standard nozzle that' we'll need 24mm with this one? How about how fast to pump stuff into the nozzle to get a purge in the way you achieved with the standard nozzle? Is it actually even possible given the extra melt area?
     
  19. JvdP

    JvdP Well-Known Member

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    Interesting project Duncan! If it's any help, here's a photo of how far my standard v6 hotends go into the dual head. If you zoom in you will see that the mounting flange is flush with the printed part so in conclusion yours looks good!

    IMG_0155.JPG

    I'm keen to hear how your experience with 0,4mm on volcano will be. I've thought of this dual volcano setup too but I often struggled with the small nozzle and certain materials getting jams. You see, in some cases materials get simply heated too much and turning down the temperature didn't help for me.
     
  20. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    @JvdP yours are more flush than mine, meaning that you've made a bit more space in the X carriage than I did. Somehow it's all working now though. Next up, an attempt at a traffic cone with 2 volcanoes of different sizes. Here goes nothing.
     

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