E3D Lite help

Discussion in 'General' started by TheJimReaper, May 3, 2018.

  1. TheJimReaper

    TheJimReaper Member

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    Hi,

    I'm reasonably new to 3D Printing, I've been 3D printing for about 10months, and only had my CR-10s for 3 months. After cleaning up a rather nasty oozing problem I found that the thermistor wire had snapped and another wire was barely hanging on. So before buying a new stock hot end I thought I'd look around at what other hot ends were available, and I want to get as much info as possible so I can make the right choice.

    The E3D Lite came out as the most suitable for my needs, and fitting it seems fairly straight forward. I was told that as well as having better print quality than the stock hot end, it can also reduce the risk of clogging and oozing. However, I've also been told that if I do get the E3D Lite, it is recommended that I update my firmware to either the TH3D Unified firmware or the Tacblades firmware!

    Apart from the odd thing, I'm pretty much covered when it comes to hardware, but when it comes to software I can get easily confused! which is why I need the help.

    Firstly, I'm not sure if I need the 12v or the 24v? If it helps I'm in the uk with the control box set to 220v.

    And secondly, I'd like to know why I have to update my firmware to either the TH3D Unified or Tacblades firmware, won't the E3D Lite work with the CR-10s stock firmware?

    If I do have to change it, which is the best one to use and how easy is it to install? Does the firmware come with step by step instructions for installation? I read the info on each of the firmware's websites and although I understood most of it, I also got lost in some parts.

    What concerns me is that if I do have to change the firmware I might do something wrong and I'm left with a printer that doesn't work and there's nothing I can do about it as the firmware is shared as is with no support!

    I'll more than likely have more questions, but any help you can give will be very much appreciated.

    Thanks

    Jim
     
  2. Antoine

    Antoine Well-Known Member
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    Lite6 will work well but you are limited to low temperature plastics. If you want to be able to print more exotic materials without risk of ruining your hotend, I would recommend going for the V6.

    With regards to firmware, the thermistor used in the V6/Lite6 is not the same as the one used by Creality. Unless you use the thermistor that came with the CR-10 (which you say is not an option), you will need to change the thermistor setting in your firmware. Luckily, Creality have recently released the firmware for the CR-10s (which I believe is a modified version of Marlin), so by following the steps in our online guide, you should be able to modify the relevant line of code and re-upload it to the printer. -> https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/Lite6+Repetier+Configuration/28?lang=en

    The CR-10s runs of 12V, so you will need to purchase the 12V version of the hotend you end up choosing. If you have any more questions, feel free to post them here or send us an email directly at support@e3d-online.com
     
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  3. TheJimReaper

    TheJimReaper Member

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    Hi Antoine, Thanks so much for your reply.

    I have only printed in PLA so far and will probably stick to it. Although I would like to try wood PLA and flexible at some point. Will the Lite6 work with these 2 types or would I need the V6 for them?

    Thanks for clearing up the reason for changing the firmware for me. If I do go with the V6, will the steps in the link you provided work for it as well, as I noticed it's a guide for the Lite6?

    Thanks so much again

    Jim

    Edit: I know both the Lite6 and V6 comes with a fan mount, but Is it possible to get a mount with either of them to attach them to the CR-10s? I currently do not have a way to print one myself and without a mount I have no way of fitting them!
     
    #3 TheJimReaper, May 3, 2018
    Last edited: May 3, 2018
  4. Antoine

    Antoine Well-Known Member
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    Lite 6 will print flexibles and infilled PLAs fine, so long as the print temperature is lower than the max temp of the hotend.
    The only difference between the V6 and the Lite6 firmware configuration is the max temp setting. You'll find specific guides to all the variants here: https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/
    Right now there is no ready made mount for the CR-10, you'll have to manufacture your own.
     
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  5. TheJimReaper

    TheJimReaper Member

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    Ok Thanks for the help, it's much appreciated
     
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