E3D-V6 - Blocks after first layers

Discussion in 'E3D-v6 and Lite6' started by Eloque, Jul 3, 2017.

  1. Eloque

    Eloque Member

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    I have an E3D-V6 hotend with a Bulldog XL extruder. And I have issues with it unfortunately. The first layer or so it prints fine, looks good. Then, it starts extruding less and less filament, going from lines, to droplets until nothing comes out anymore.

    I've mounted the 0.8 nozzle, checked the extruder, the heatbreak, cooling fan etc are all set. Temps are not dropping, but still nothing is printable. Any clue?
     
  2. elmoret

    elmoret Administrator

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    Where'd you get it from?
    What filament size?
    Can you post a few photos of it assembled?
    What are your retraction settings?
     
  3. Eloque

    Eloque Member

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    Directly from E3D
    3mm
    Yes, added
    Retraction was 9mm for some reason. Now trying with 1

    . 16 - The metal with the heater.jpg 17 - The heatsink on the nozzle.jpg 18 - The assembled electronics.jpg 19 - The hotend and fan.jpg
     
  4. Eloque

    Eloque Member

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    1mm retraction did not help much. Although it's not droplets anymore, there is not nearly enough filament coming through after the first layer.

    IMG_20170704_000609.jpg
     

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  5. Antoine

    Antoine Well-Known Member
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    This doesn't look like a 0.8 nozzle, the dot pattern is wrong and the tip flat is way too small. Could we get a picture from closer up?
    Check that your hotend cooling fan is on all the time, and that the part cooling fan isn't cooling the block too much (no air blowing too close to the nozzle).
    What filament are you using?
    What is your printing speed/temperature?
    Do you have a plot of your hotend temperature?
    Is the spool free to rotate?
    Could you tell us when you purchased this hotend? It seems like an old block design...
     
  6. Eloque

    Eloque Member

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    The hot-end assembled is definitively a .8 as far as I can tell. The dot pattern has 5 dots. It is another nozzle on the same hotend. I switched nozzles. The problem occurs on all nozzles however.

    I am using ABS 3mm.

    I am printing 60mm/s and 10mm/s for the first layer.

    The spool is free to rotate.

    I've purchased all my E3D hotends directly from E3D-Online. If you can lookup order ID it's 1012209 and 1013954. For one of those was E3D being awesome after a nozzle plainly just broke off and replacing it. As for old yes, 2015. Sadly, I've never gotten one of the E3Dv6's I have to work properly yet.
     
  7. Eloque

    Eloque Member

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    This is the temp graph;

    upload_2017-7-4_18-54-58.png

    The drop is end of print of course.

    The temps were 225/110.
    The speed was 60 mm/s
    The small fan was on all the time.
    GCode file added for reference.
     

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  8. Eloque

    Eloque Member

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    Also, running with zero extraction didn't solve the problem. I am kinda out of ideas here :(
     
  9. Kanedias

    Kanedias Well-Known Member

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    check the time it takes to slow down and stop when printing and then extrude filament into the air for the same or more and see if it does the same. If it continually extrudes fine it may be the pressure building up by being too close to the bed.

    3mm at 60mm/s through a .8mm nozzle sounds fast to me, I'd try slowing the speeed way way down to 10mm/s or less and seeing it it persists. If it doesn't then that would suggest heat can't transfer to the filament quick enough to melt it.
     
  10. Eloque

    Eloque Member

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    I've tried changing speeds, but that didn't really improve things. I will try the low speed as per your suggestion.
     
  11. Antoine

    Antoine Well-Known Member
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    From all this it does seem that 60mm.s might be a bit fast for 3mm filament in a V6. Compared to 1.75mm, the larger cross sectional area of the 3mm filament will require more heat input to melt it all the way to the centre. Slowing it down does seem to be the sensible option here.
     
  12. Eloque

    Eloque Member

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    I would agree, it seems like a solid explanation and I will try. I must however remark that I remember having similar problems with the 0.3 nozzle as well.
     
  13. Eloque

    Eloque Member

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    Unfortunatly, lowering the speed did nothing to alleviate the problem. For reference, a video of it failing;

     
  14. FrankG

    FrankG Member

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    Print an ABS 3mm you need more temperature.
    Most ABS prints good with 250 C @ 40mm/s
    At 60mm/s use 255-260 C.
    With a 0.8mm nozzle 0.4mm layer height test with 260C (40mm/s)
     
  15. Eloque

    Eloque Member

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    Not to disagree, but are you absolutely sure about that? And is the thermistor rated for that?
    I've been printing ABS with an old PEEK based J-Head hotend for many years, but never at that high a temp. Is such a high temp needed for full metal hotends?

    The wiki claims these : You may find that after changing your hotend you may need to use slightly different temperatures, as a guide at E3D we tend to print PLA between 190C and 210C, and ABS at 230C to 240C. Your particular filament may however need different settings.

    I'd want to try, but I'd also not want to burn any parts.
     
  16. elmoret

    elmoret Administrator

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    The thermistor is good to 290C.
     
  17. Eloque

    Eloque Member

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    I tried 2 runs at 260 degrees, 40 mm/s and 0.4 layers. Results were still bad. Frankly, I am running out of ideas. It's a bit hard to see, but on the second picture you can see the walls have gaps and holes in it.
     

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  18. FrankG

    FrankG Member

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    Sorry i have not seen that you attached the stl file.
    The wand is only 0.4mm !
    You use Siplify 3d?
    For the slicer software it is to small.
    Simpify ignores too small parts.
    Scale it 2x or more and it print.

    Datasheet
    Abs

    Colour: White (RAL ±9003)
    Filament Net Weight: ± 0.75 Kg
    EAN: 8718924471364
    SKU: 175EABS-WHTE-750
    Material: EasyFil™ ABS - Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene
    Transparency: Opaque
    Diameter: 1.75 mm
    Diameter Tolerance: ± 0.05 mm
    Print Temperature Guideline: ± 220-260˚C
    Heatbed Temperature:
    Melting Temperature:
    240° C ± 10° C
    Glass Transition Temperature: ± 103˚C
    Ovalidity Tolerance (max): ≥95%
    Density (21.5°C): -
    Print Speed Guideline: 40 - 80 mm/s
    Impact Strength: 36 KJ/m2
    Tensile Modulus: 2000 Mpa

    See at melting Temperature
    • Melting point, the temperature at which a substance changes from solid to liquid state (wikipedia)
     
  19. Eloque

    Eloque Member

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    It's a standard calibration piece. You are saying that slicing went wrong and the walls are too thin for this particular nozzle? I use nightly sli3er, so I will scale it to be thicker then. See if that helps. I always assumed that it would create walls no thinner than the nozzle itself.
     
  20. Eloque

    Eloque Member

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    That seemed to have a positive effect. You may have found my issue.
     

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