E3D-V6 Constantly Jamming

Discussion in 'E3D-v6 and Lite6' started by RaV3D, Jan 26, 2017.

  1. RaV3D

    RaV3D Member

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    A few days ago I installed my E3D upgrade for my Ultimaker 2 and printed my first print with the supplied sample of E3D-Edge which turned out great, but as soon as I changed my nozzle and filament(Innofil3D PLA and DasFilament PLA), I started getting lots of issues with the filament not extruding and causing the Titan extruder to grind through the filament. I was able to get two successful prints done with the 0.8mm nozzle, but as soon as I started changing the nozzle again, I got issues regardless of the nozzle size. After rebuilding the hotend several times I wasn´t able to solve the issue but determine that the issue might be that the heatbrake isn´t working as intended, because the filament is sticking to the walls of the heatbreak and nozzle. Retraction is set to 2mm, so I don´t think that this is the cause for my problem. Can anyone confirm my theory that the heat transfer between the cooling block isn´t sufficient?
     
  2. W1EBR.Gene

    W1EBR.Gene Well-Known Member

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    Simple question: Is the temp you are using for the PLA too low to melt the residual E3D-Edge filament in the nozzle and heated area?
     
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  3. Tom De Bie

    Tom De Bie Well-Known Member

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    my thoughts exactly... When going from a filament which needs to be printed with a higher temperature then the next try to extrude the second filament (ie PLA) at the same temperature as the previous one. At least 10cm of filament just to clean out the hotend...
    After that set the temperature to the required setting for the new filament
     
  4. RaV3D

    RaV3D Member

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    I was trying to un-jam the hotend by extruding pla by hand at 230°C, but a simple nozzle swap (as is did multiple times) should have been enough as well
     
  5. Cedric_K

    Cedric_K Member

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    I had lot of jammings when my heatsink fan was not full powered 100% of the time.

    It should be connected to direct 12v supply (or 24v according the case.)
    It must be blowing while heating up nozzle, while printing, while cooling down.

    I believe ultimakers are 24v powered, is it actually a 24v fan which was supplied with your kit ? If there were a delivery mistake with a 12v fan, it only blows half of what it's supposed to do.

    Please check if these points are ok for you.
     
  6. RaV3D

    RaV3D Member

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    The fan is directly connected to the power supply and is always on when the printer is powered. airflow and sound level look normal as well
     
  7. RaV3D

    RaV3D Member

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    The thermal compound between the heatbrake and heatsink seems to have done the trick for now.
     
  8. Cedric_K

    Cedric_K Member

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    I forgot to speak about that... I put some thermal compound too, it made things better :)
     
  9. RaV3D

    RaV3D Member

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    yep, my issues seem to be fixed now. Sadly my thermistor seems to have a loose connection and will read an incorrect temperature (too high) from time to time which causes some print failures for me. Is this a known problem that I can fix by soldering the wires together or should I RMA the part?
     
  10. Greg Holloway

    Greg Holloway Administrator
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  11. RaV3D

    RaV3D Member

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  12. Greg Holloway

    Greg Holloway Administrator
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    You're welcome?

    Double check the connectors are pushed together enough and there isn't a lose contact. You can also try wiggling the wires a little right near where they go into the cartridge by the heater block. If you get an error there contact support@e3donline.com and they shall arrange for a replacement sensor.
     

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