E3D Water Cooled Mod

Discussion in 'E3D-v6 and Lite6' started by BurningDownTheHouse, Mar 25, 2014.

  1. Sanjay

    Sanjay Administrator
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    This is a truly awesome setup - really like it.

    One small nitpick about the instructions PDF - it says that 20mm tubing fits the heatsink by default, which I don't think is quite correct as the heatsink OD is 25mm?

    I'm super interested in your switch over system. I can see how it all works, I just wonder how reliable the last little bit where the hotend has a stub of filament that reached up to the hob which then has to be pushed down and though the hotend by the new end of the filament is? You must have have a very well constrained system for it not to buckle/wedge up at that point.

    I'm impressed! What are you printing in there?
     
  2. BurningDownTheHouse

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    That's a really good price! and it looks totally suitable for the job. On and off is better because you should be able to set a dead band so the heater turns off while the chamber cools a few degrees.

    I have checked out my belts when the chamber is heated and there is a little stretch but definitely not enough to make the belt skip.

    You've done a great job on the enclosure. I can't tell from the image if you intend the cycle the heated air. What I mean are you going have a return from the opposite side back to the heater? What I have noticed from my set up is that it's good to have a small fan or two in the chamber to circulate the air otherwise you can develop hot spots.
     
  3. BurningDownTheHouse

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    Thanks for pointing this out Sanjay. It's an error on my part. That should read 25mm tubing because that's what I'm using. I don't know what made me write down 20mm. My excuse is that it was late at night plus I didn't check facts carefully before posting. :oops:
    I have gone back an corrected it in the tutorial. :)


    That's the key to the system - having close tolerances and the most important part is from the drive gears down into the hotend.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    As you can see when both filament drive gears are in position, the filament being driven can only go one way and that's down the hole to the hotend. It can't buckle or go in any other direction. Plus no part of the filament pathway can be wider than maybe 3 mm ( I keep it at 2 mm to be safe.) You can't have the pushing filament slip past the filament it is pushing and then not push or create a wedge that then jams both filaments. So that means even the cone shaped entrance at the top of the E3D extruder has to be filled and redrilled. My clamp that holds the hotend pushes it hard up against the body of the extruder making sure there are no gaps or edges for the filament to get caught on

    [​IMG]

    The whole filament pathway from the base to the hotend has been made so no point is wider than 2 mm.That even meant filling the bottom of the holes and remaining threads that the pneumatic push fittings screw into. The most difficult part was the start - getting the tip of the new filament to be sitting hard up against the end of the old filament as it went through the bottom extruder. Thus making sure there was no gap between the two filaments on the way to the hotend and so avoiding a gap in the print.


    [quoteI'm impressed! What are you printing in there?][/quote]

    I'm making large sculptures, some over 2 meters high made from sections which are glued together and then painted.
     
  4. Found

    Found New Member

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    Hi BurningDownTheHouse!
    Can you show examples of work carried out on the 3d printer?
    You can talk and show more photos of the heating chamber system?
    Thank you!
     
  5. Tincho85

    Tincho85 Member

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    I've created an account just to say thank you for this tutorial.
    Great mod/upgrade!!

    Martin.
     
  6. Nik822

    Nik822 New Member

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    Hello everyone. Has anyone solved the problem with the change of reel during printing? Very interesting solution in the photo in this post. Does anyone have any more information how to do this?
     
  7. Steltzer

    Steltzer New Member

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    Sorry for reviving an old post. I came across after looking for water cooled hotends on google.

    Mate, congrats on the excellent ingenuitive design!! Love what you are doing.
    I personally would love to understand your dual filament switch over system, and how those components work to create NO gap between the filaments when one runs out. How does the system determine the first filament in empty? what role does the solenoid play?

    once again, amazing work!

    I would love an update to see how far you have come since your last post.
     
  8. earwax

    earwax New Member

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    Same here, Joined the forum just to bug you to update photobucket settings so we can see the pics!
     

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