Hi, I was wondering what settings to use for the e3dv5 hotend for 0.40mm 0.35mm 0.30mm and 0.25mm nozzles on a 3mm direct feed system on slic3r or cura. I have an 8" i3 prusa from makerfarm. Thank you, Edwin
Hi Edwin, Can I point you to this thread: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=34 - if that leaves any questions unanswered let me know! Josh
Thanks. I was previously using a j-head 0.35mm and now have the 0.40mm head on it with the e3dv5. When i extrude 10mm at 30mm/min at 230C i get 10mm of filament which is awesome. The only trouble is when I print it doesn't seem to be extruding enough filament to lay down a layer. Here are my current settings: avoid_crossing_perimeters = 1 bed_size = 200,200 bed_temperature = 110 bottom_solid_layers = 3 bridge_acceleration = 0 bridge_fan_speed = 100 bridge_flow_ratio = 1 bridge_speed = 30 brim_width = 0 complete_objects = 0 cooling = 1 default_acceleration = 0 disable_fan_first_layers = 1 duplicate = 1 duplicate_distance = 6 duplicate_grid = 1,1 end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nG28 X0 ; home X axis\nG28 Y0 ; home Y axis\nM84 ; disable motors\nM190 S0 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached external_perimeter_speed = 70% external_perimeters_first = 0 extra_perimeters = 1 extruder_clearance_height = 20 extruder_clearance_radius = 20 extruder_offset = 0x0 extrusion_axis = E extrusion_multiplier = 1 extrusion_width = 0 fan_always_on = 1 fan_below_layer_time = 60 filament_diameter = 3 fill_angle = 45 fill_density = 0.4 fill_pattern = honeycomb first_layer_bed_temperature = 110 first_layer_extrusion_width = 200% first_layer_height = 0.25 first_layer_speed = 30% first_layer_temperature = 235 g0 = 0 gap_fill_speed = 10 gcode_arcs = 0 gcode_comments = 0 gcode_flavor = reprap infill_acceleration = 0 infill_every_layers = 1 infill_extruder = 1 infill_extrusion_width = 0 infill_first = 0 infill_only_where_needed = 0 infill_speed = 30 layer_gcode = layer_height = 0.25 max_fan_speed = 100 min_fan_speed = 35 min_print_speed = 10 min_skirt_length = 0 notes = nozzle_diameter = 0.40 only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1 output_filename_format = [input_filename_base]i38-e3-abs-40mm.gcode perimeter_acceleration = 0 perimeter_extruder = 1 perimeter_extrusion_width = 0 perimeter_speed = 15 perimeters = 3 post_process = print_center = 100,100 raft_layers = 0 randomize_start = 1 resolution = 0 retract_before_travel = 2 retract_layer_change = 1 retract_length = 1 retract_length_toolchange = 10 retract_lift = 0 retract_restart_extra = 0 retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0 retract_speed = 30 rotate = 0 scale = 1 skirt_distance = 6 skirt_height = 1 skirts = 1 slowdown_below_layer_time = 30 small_perimeter_speed = 15 solid_fill_pattern = rectilinear solid_infill_below_area = 70 solid_infill_every_layers = 0 solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0 solid_infill_speed = 30 start_gcode = G28 ; home all axes support_material = 0 support_material_angle = 0 support_material_enforce_layers = 0 support_material_extruder = 1 support_material_extrusion_width = 0 support_material_interface_layers = 0 support_material_interface_spacing = 0 support_material_pattern = rectilinear support_material_spacing = 2.5 support_material_speed = 30 support_material_threshold = 0 temperature = 230 threads = 2 toolchange_gcode = top_infill_extrusion_width = 0 top_solid_infill_speed = 25 top_solid_layers = 3 travel_speed = 130 use_relative_e_distances = 0 vibration_limit = 0 z_offset = 0
Some of the newer Slic3r has been given me and many others on the Seemecnc forum problems. Especially the latest release candidates. Some of us have stepped down to 0.9.9 It may help you also, worth a try.
What is your steps/mm configured as in you firmware? Also can you just confirm with me what extruder design you are using?
Hi, I'm using greg's extruder i'm assuming it's default_max_feedrate? #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,841} // default steps per unit for ultimaker {78.7402,78.7402,200*8/3,760*1.1}920 #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {250, 250, 2, 22} // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1000,1000,5,1000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot. #define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 500 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves #define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 500 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for r retracts // The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instanteneously) #define DEFAULT_XYJERK 20.0 // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4 // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0 // (mm/sec) Thank you for trying to help me. I greatly appreciate it. Edwin
Hi, Just so you can have a visual of what's going on. Here's an image of what it does. It lays down the first layer on the glass nice and thin, then it just starts spitting out little balls of abs that end up dropping on the glass and then later picked up by the nozzle. https://www.dropbox.com/sc/qoybkv2xr3r5k9e/7Y8qG1tZUF I have lay down the first layer at 235C and the next layers at 230C also just to be clear, when I do manual extrusion, I set it at 10mm and I am able to measure out 10mm of filament coming out of the nozzle. Do you need me to measure how much filament goes in also? Thank you again Edwin
I cannot calibrate or bring now as not having the hotend operate at anything above 190C without turning down the fan has caused the extruder to bend. I think the first thing I need to have working is the hotend functioning at operating temperature. Should I rap the resistor with aluminum so there is more contact with the heating block? Thanks, Edwin
If you feel that there is insufficient contact with the heating cartridge then wrapping it with the foil may be a good idea. This is an unusual circumstance however, the contact area is usually a snug fit without the foil. I would also recommend purchasing a thermocouple meter and placing the thermocouple directly into the hotend until it reaches the nozzle then turn on the hotend to a predetermined temperature and verify with the thermocouple meter what the temperature actually is. This helps to determine that the thermistor is reading properly and the firmware is extrapolating the thermistor data correctly. I feel that all owners of 3D printers own a thermocouple meter and they are available on Amazon for less the $30.
Few problems here: 1.) when you ask it to extrude 10mm, that should be 10mm going in, not coming out. sounds like your e-steps are way off. 2.) it looks like there is nearly zero gap between the hotbed and nozzle. Can you check that you can slide a sheet of paper between? 3.) the gap between the nozzle and heat-block seems large...?
Hi, Yes you are right the esteps are off. also the gap between the heatbed, has been mostly fixed. the only issue is that the center of the bed is higher than the other corners of it by about the thickness of a sheet of paper or two. any recommendations on how to fix that? I fixed the heating issue. Only problem now is extruding the correct amount of filament and also the warping i'm getting when printing elongated pieces in abs. Thank you for your feedback Edwin
Makerfarm sells a spring kit for the Prusa I3 that goes on the Heatbed that may help you to level it properly. I have found one of the best solutions for ABS curling is too spray a thin coat of Extra Super Hold hair spray on the glass. I do not to use ABS dissolved in Acetone because it can hold to much and I have seen reports of people pulling chunks of glass from their heatbed because the part is stuck too securely.
Yeah, I have the springs installed and it is still not completely flat. it is off by 1-2 paper thickness on the ends of the glass. Also, I use extra hold hairspray on the glass. Perhaps I should use more. Also the hairspray is from Korea and left over from last years trip. Perhaps I should get something stronger. I run the heatbed at 110C btw. Thanks, Edwin
Here is a link to one of the hairsprays I use with a bed temp of 80-90c http://www.amazon.com/Garnier-Fructis-A ... ctis+spray It has to be the number 5 or it won't work.
I use the same, just number 2 though. Works great, I've printed 150mm x 200mm rectangular plates without warp at 110C.
You are the first to indicate that a number lower than 5 would work. That is good to know, I guess that no one on the other forums has actually tried it. That's why I like the forums, you can always learn something. Thanks for taking the time to inform this community.
I got the hairspray and everything was working great until my thermistor broke... the print failed midway... problem after a problem.. lol I'm going to try and set the termistor in the heat block with heat resistant clay. any suggestions? I find the kaptop tape very difficult to work with.
I use http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81878-Ma ... copper+rtv It takes 24 hours hours to cure or about 4 if you add a little cornstarch to it. Works great and you can get it in an Auto Parts Store also.
bed MUST be COMPLETELY level...unless you are measuring three points and letting firmware make corrections(autolevel in Marlin). I would still make bed as level as possible though if using autolevel in firmware. I use non fragrance Aqua Net Extra Super Hold hairspray on glass...purple and white bottle. Works great with abs and pet. I lightly spray many coats on hot glass....heat and remove from printer then spray. leaves a matt finish that parts cling to. I am using cheap(<$3.00) float glass from Lowes and the only one to break so far was cause I dropped it
