E3Dv6 3mm direct jamming

Discussion in 'E3D-v6 and Lite6' started by tante ju, Feb 26, 2015.

  1. tante ju

    tante ju Member

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    Hi,

    I know, I'm not the only one. But up to now I did not see a single solution, but tons of jamming threads.

    My E3Dv6 works fine for about an hour or so with PLA (anything between 30 to 90 minutes), then the filament will get stuck. No way of pushing it with hand or so. Completely stuck way forward. BUT: I could easily rip it out, cut off the bulb at the tip, put it in again and it will work. All with the print still ongoing. Roughly one hour later the same will happen.

    I'm now to nearly at the end of an 3 1/2 hour print and had to do this twice.

    If it would be the filament diameter, I would expect such issues to happen now and then. After 5 minutes, after 10 minutes. Anytime. If it would be cooling, I do not think, that removing the filament, cutting off the tip and putting in would solve it, because it should then stuck directly again.

    What is going on with this piece?
     
  2. ShippingGuy

    ShippingGuy Member

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    I'm in no way an expert in 3mm diameter filament or printers, but I do work for a 3D printing company and observe the constant challenges we go through and our customers go through. Could it be an issue with the filament diameter tolerance? Most people who print in 2.85mm filament do not have problems. Could be an issue with 3.00mm filaments that fluctuate +/- in diameter.
     
  3. tante ju

    tante ju Member

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    Sure, filament diameter is possible. But how likely is it, that it that the same piece, that got stuck then goes through?
    If I remove it the stuck filament (during print), cut of the bulb at the tip, because I could not feed that back in, and put the filament back in, it then works again.

    I've noticed a different effect: If I increase temperature, the interval between jams increases.
     
  4. ShippingGuy

    ShippingGuy Member

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    what about lowering the temps?
     
  5. tante ju

    tante ju Member

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    Then it jams directly.
    I've now tried three different filament producers, everyone with two different filament colors, just to be sure, and it always jams.

    I've changed cooling, retracts, extrusion speeds and I think I'm done with all options. Actually I only see the final option left. Not sure, if anyone has another idea?
     
  6. RooTer

    RooTer New Member

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    I also have E3Dv6 3mm direct and experience jamming problem (with ABS!). Searching for solutions is especially hard as in the most cases they talk about PTFE tube and/or PLA. In the beginning I was printing just fine (few ~2h prints), but after some time it stopped. Thinking I had clogged up nozzle I tried to clear it leading to its breakage ;) Bought new one from local "ebay". They didn't have dots (probably genuine, but v5). Wouldn't work. After breaking nozzle I checked heatbreak pipe and it seems to me it is straight. Bought another pair of 0.4mm v6 nozzles from e3d shop. The same problem, almost immediately hotend jams (after few centimetres of the extrusion). Read up some more and recently tried sanding (sanding paper (400 to 1600) on small 2mm drill ). Heatbreak pipe interior started looking better to naked eye than it was before, but there was no obvious (at least to me) significant imperfections to begin with. Started printing, 20 minutes in - jam.

    Obviously, I'm disappointed as I thought this was best available full metal hotend, but at least for 3mm direct it seems it is not or full metal hotends just suck;)
    My next plan is to salvage heatblock, nozzles and produce my own heatbreak pipe (I don't know how to extract previous one from radiator) and run it thru some watercooled copper pipe. I have seen some posts suggesting heat is not properly dissipated from heatbreak and travels higher up melting filament causing clog. I'm not sure if this is what happens in my case as pulling out filament always deforms it somehow, but there is swelling on it near the end, which would suggest it.
     

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