e3dv6 firmware setting for replicator 2x

Discussion in 'E3D-v6 and Lite6' started by gurusonwheels, May 1, 2017.

  1. gurusonwheels

    gurusonwheels New Member

    Joined:
    May 1, 2017
    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    I have a replicator 2x Exp . this is dual e3dv6 i have installed using this :

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1739097

    anyone know what changes in the firmware and simplify3d need to be made if any ?
     
  2. Paul Winter

    Paul Winter Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2016
    Messages:
    48
    Likes Received:
    9
    Firmware will need to know what the board type is - for Ramps 1.4 and Arduino you edit configuration.h.
    I'm not sure what you need to do for other board types.

    Change the motherboard from
    MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB (where the EFB stands for Extruder Fan Bed - the Fan would be used as a PWM controlled part cooler)
    to
    MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EEB (where the EEB stands for Extruder Extruder Bed)

    You have now lost the ability to drive a PWM controlled part cooling fan. This can be restored by purchasing an additional MOSFET that plugs onto some of the RAMPS expansion pins to drive the parts cooling fan(s).
    Note: these fans are NOT the E3D V6 heatsink fans - do not alter their speed as if the heatsinks/heatbreaks get warm or hot, this will cause filament jams in the hotends.

    There is an entry to #define EXTRUDERS 1
    Set this to 2

    You will need to accurately measure the distance along the X-axis between the nozzle tips, and edit this section in configuration.h:
    You may aldo have to tweak for any offset in the Y-axis if the nozzles are not vertical or there is some misalignment. There are some dual extruder calibration test models on Thingiverse:

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:533814

    // Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing).
    // The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder).
    // For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend.
    #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 31.8} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
    #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, -0.50} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis

    You will have to define an additional temperature sensor depending on your thermistor type or PT100:

    #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5
    #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 5
    #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 5
    #define TEMP_SENSOR_3 0
    #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1

    You will have to define sane maximum heater temperatures for the additional hotend(s)

    #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 280
    #define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 280
    #define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 280
    #define HEATER_3_MAXTEMP 280
    #define BED_MAXTEMP 110

    You may have to change the direction of one of your extruder motors, depending on how they are orientated

    You will have to accept limitations on your X-axis travel distances to account for the room taken up by the extra hotend and fans:

    // Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)
    #define X_MIN_POS 0
    #define Y_MIN_POS 0
    #define Z_MIN_POS 0
    #define X_MAX_POS 180
    #define Y_MAX_POS 200
    #define Z_MAX_POS 180

    You also might have to tinker with your default bed home position - where the Tool 0 nozzle starts out.

    Don't forget to check all the axis' for their movement limits, especially if the X-carriage has had major changes to fan positions, motors, limit switches. And like my new X-carriage, the Z height had changed by 20mm for example.

    Simplify3D has the Tools/Dual Extrusion wizard, which walks you through setting up and grouping a process - give it two components of a model, and it will align the components and offer a sub-process for each extruder/hotend. You do not need to tell Simplify3D about the hotend offsets (it gets it from the printers firmware), but you will need to tell it about the Printer's axis limitations, as this affects the softwares visualisation and model placing.

    Hope this helps
     
  3. Paul Winter

    Paul Winter Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2016
    Messages:
    48
    Likes Received:
    9
    Sorry, forgot to mention, but also take a look at the power supply unit for your printer. Once I had my second extruder installed, I noticed the power supply dipped to 10V when both extruders and the heated bed came on. Some advice is to tweak your power supply up past 12V to 13.2, but you are better off getting a more capable replacement power supply unit (PSU) and leaving it at 12V. A 12V 30A 360W PSU on Amazon was only £25 including delivery, and seems to have made the printer more stable.
     

Share This Page