E3dv6 Underextrusion/clogs

Discussion in 'E3D-v6 and Lite6' started by Josh7077, Jan 7, 2019.

  1. Josh7077

    Josh7077 Member

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    So I bought an ender3 and an e3dv6 hotend in September and had failures all along.
    Sometimes I have succesfull prints but most of the time I have either underextrusion or complete clogs.
    It would be really nice if someone could help me here bc it is just frustrating to work since 2 months on it and it doesn´t want to work.
    I have tried many different settings and some work for a short time and then fail at the same print.

    Slicer : Cura
    Speed: 60mm/s / tried 30mm/s but same result
    Filament: Hatchbox white PLA ( worked better) and DasFilament PLA ( worked not so good but I want to try and get that working)
    Retraction: off (worked a bit better) / 1.2mm-1.6mm (worked good for DasFilament) / 3mm (worked for Hatchbox)
    Fan speed: 0%( worked good for getting no clogs but quality is just bad) /50% (works) /100% (thermal runaway) Using https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2494642 fan duct with fans on both sides
    Extruder: Bulldog extruder with stock motor
    Board: MKS Ramps 1.4

    BLtouch+Glass bed

    Notes:

    i get skipping on the first layer and it often fails at the second layer.

    After cold pull it can go well for some prints

    Pictures:
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_Eg4-Vq23wfzzhwPIHEPN7x2IOTmRf0T
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1xsFq14La__29cK0RLxWzsDqB9UkAkgnq
     
  2. Antoine

    Antoine Well-Known Member
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    A few pointers:
    • Stick to an extrusion speed of 40mm/s max until you get good prints, this should allow you to drop your hotend temp to reduce ooze.
    • Keep your retractions as low as possible and under 2mm. If you still have oozing check try reducing your hotend temperature.
    • Design a fan duct so that you don't get thermal runaway: point the orifice at the tip of the nozzle and use a silicone sock.
    • Can't vouch for the pushing force of the Bulldog, but if you have a powerful enough extruder you should be able to push through most small clogs.
    • Try to start off with natural filaments rather than coloured ones to get your machined dialled in, white filament particularly worst as they have a very heavy pigment content which alters the properties of the plastic.
     
  3. Josh7077

    Josh7077 Member

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    Changed nozzles and Filament (before your post) and swithced to a 40w heater. Looks good so far but i am getting some burned filament.
    Will keep you updated.
     
  4. Josh7077

    Josh7077 Member

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    Just want to add that i often get weird cold pulls like that shown in the DasFilament folder. What problem could that indicate?
    Addtionolly I have the printer in an Ecnlosure and the temperature can rise upto 40C. Could that be a problem?
     
  5. Josh7077

    Josh7077 Member

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    Still failing at the same height. Got one good print but the print after that failed.
    Looking in the hardware of the printer if there is a problem.
     
    #5 Josh7077, Jan 9, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2019
  6. Antoine

    Antoine Well-Known Member
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  7. Josh7077

    Josh7077 Member

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    ok. But that is quite expensive. Would a Fan that is mounted on the outside and blowing air through a tube onto the cool part on the hotend help?
     
  8. Josh7077

    Josh7077 Member

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    Getting heat creep at room temperatures. The Heat sink is going upto 50C while having the fan running plus two extra fans nearby to help with the cooling.
     
  9. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

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    Perhaps you could explain why your printer is in an enclosure?

    • Keeping smells away from the rest of the room/house?
    • In a cold room so that you need to keep the printer temperature steady, maybe away from drafts too?

    Otherwise I assume that the 40oC is hotter than the surrounding room and the high temp caused by the heat from the hot-end.

    If so why have an enclosure, printing works fine in a relatively draft free room for most people.

    Also did you have a setup with the enclosure and 40oC inside temp printing perfectly well before?

    The fan setup you mention assumed as in the CR10 link seems odd in that you have directly opposing fans that appear to be pointed at the nozzle not downward towards the print (the reason for so called Thermal runaway" a bad term as it means the temp is too low not too high) On a single extruder BigBox there is one fan, on a BB dual two but further apart than the CR10 setup. The BB fan shroud has a lip to force the airflow downward toward the print, the ones on the CR10 look like they blow horizontal which would make it far more difficult to cool the print and not the nozzle (hence I assume the suggestion above to use a sock).

    I'm not sure what temp the heat sink should be (maybe someone else knows) and the accuracy of this depends on the material your laser? temp reader is pointed at and may be wrong. Rather than having the "two extra fans" which will blow the already hot air onto the heat sink maybe make sure that the air flow from this fan is uninterrupted (can't see what is on the other side from the fan) and cool the enclosure with a vent to let cool air in the bottom and hot out of the top. With 40oC inside and 50oC heat-sink you are not going to get much cooling.

    Really need to know why you need an enclosure and if you need it to keep the cat out of the printer? plus what the temp of surrounding air outside of the enclosure is?
     
  10. Josh7077

    Josh7077 Member

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    The Enclosure is standing outdoors because I don´t have enough room inside the House and bc of the smell. That is why I could keep it at low temperatures. When printing in the Enclosure I had bad results as well as inside at room Temperature. I don´t have any Thermal runaway issues anymore since upgrading to a 40w heater and moving the two fans slightly down as well as using a silicone sock. The other two fans that I mentioned were seperate ones and were arranged in such a way that it is easier for the 30mm stock E3D fan that I am currently using bc the 40mm Ender 3 one broke to cool the Heatsink. You could be right on how I mesaure the temperature but i had close temperatures 30C on top and when going lower 50c and then came a massive increase in temperature. The 50C I measured were taken inside at room temperature. The airflow is a bit interrupted bc of the X carriage of the ender 3.
     
  11. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

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    Eeek :-( My attached un-heated garage is cold which is why I don't print there and having tried Edge filament + Volcano on my BigBox indoors to get rid of smell and unhealthy fumes, and failed (just wrong slicer settings I think) I have given up for now, but outside is (obviously?) the major problem you have.

    To be quite honest I don't think you will fix this, unless maybe you can construct a shed around the printer and also control the temp both in the shed and the printer. The work required to do this is considerable needing sensors, fans, ducts and control circuits.

    I would certainly look at the E3D fan ducts used for the BigBox as the CR10 ones look too simple.

    I have to say though your dedication to 3D printing is awesome, just trying to get prints from a printer outside.

    Maybe you have a local Hackspace or Makerspace who could provide a home for the printer, possibly strike a deal to allow others access to the printer for their giving it an indoor home.
     
  12. Josh7077

    Josh7077 Member

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    The problem is not the cold outside. In fact it is the only place where I can print. The problem is that I am having heat creep issues at room temperature with stock e3d equipment even when the hotend is not attached to the carriage. One thing I haven't tried is the combination genuine heatbreak and stock e3d fan. Could that be the problem?
     
    #12 Josh7077, Jan 12, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2019
  13. Rob Heinzonly

    Rob Heinzonly Well-Known Member

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    I would surely try that. I've seen cheap Chinese heatbreaks on eBay that are much bulkier than the E3D ones. And more metal in the heatbreak means more heat transfer to the heatsink. That added to the non standard fan, and you will surely run into problems,
     
  14. Josh7077

    Josh7077 Member

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    Installed the new heatbreak and the bottom fins still feel warm. Trying with an actual print to see if heat creep occurs.
    Edit: It hasn´t occured and I got a perfect benchy. I will post some updates in the next day if it is going well or something happens. Thanks to all that helped me to get the problem. ;)
     
    #14 Josh7077, Jan 16, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2019
    Rob Heinzonly likes this.

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