E3Dv6 Wiring tidying - PLease share pics!

Discussion in 'E3D-v6 and Lite6' started by bolsoncerrado, Mar 3, 2017.

  1. bolsoncerrado

    bolsoncerrado Member

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    Hi!

    Im in the need to tidy up the wires coming from the fans (hotend and layer), thermistor and heater block, in some other fashion than just leaving them there, floating in the air and "moving" with the X carriage and risking wiring breakup.

    I need ideas or even better, printed parts if they ever exist!

    How do you tidy your E3D connectors?

    Mind some pics of your setups / E3Dv6 Printheads PLEASE? ;)


    Thanks!
     
  2. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    This is going to be largely a question about your printhead design. If nothing there is pre-designed to help with wire tidying, you're going to have some trouble. Take a look at some of the BigBox print head wiring to see how this is managed in the head design:

    http://wiki.e3d-online.com/images/5/58/1.1.printhead_done.jpg

    http://wiki.e3d-online.com/images/f/ff/1.1.printhead_cables_braided_more.jpg

    There are quite a few more picture to accompany these in the Bigbox build manual. Maybe you'll get some ideas if you look through there:

    http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Big...ly_Process#.2821.29_Hybrid_Printhead_Assembly
     
  3. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

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  4. bolsoncerrado

    bolsoncerrado Member

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    Thanks ppeople, will check them.
     
  5. bolsoncerrado

    bolsoncerrado Member

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    OK I guess I really need this for a single extruder!

    [​IMG]


    but I surely missed the howto, @Ephemeris

    Which sorta connectors are these? Male and female? STL of the adapters?

    Thanks! ;)
     
  6. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

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    That's a 10 pin Molex Microfit 3.0 connector.

    The most common usage of Microfit 3.0 connectors that I've seen is on PCIe video cards that takes a lot of power. They use a 6 or 8 pin version of that connector to supply the card with power directly from the PSU
     
  7. bolsoncerrado

    bolsoncerrado Member

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    So did you have to rework, recrimp or insulate the stock ed3 wire terminals?
     
  8. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

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    Heater cartridge leads were long enough to make it to the connector so they were trimmed stripped and crimped. The Pt100 and fan leads are pretty short and have to spliced for my install.
     
  9. bolsoncerrado

    bolsoncerrado Member

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    Can u share the connector in stl?
     
  10. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

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    The first thread I linked had my stl files.
     
  11. bolsoncerrado

    bolsoncerrado Member

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    Thanks @Ephemeris, just a couple more:

    1) how did you handle pt100 and fan rewiring then?
    2) which gauge wire do you use for the heater cart inside the MF3.0? is it enogh safe?
     
  12. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

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    If you have to splice the fan or PT100, be careful because they are very fine wire, either 28 or 30 gauge. I recommend against using a mechanical stripper on something that small, you'll probably nick the conductors. Instead use a soldering iron or torch to remove enough insulation for a splice. Then use a small crimp ferrule to splice to a 22 AWG stranded wire. Then insulate the ferrule with heatshrink tubing. Assuming a typical setub, 22 AWG wire is fine for the heater.
     
  13. bolsoncerrado

    bolsoncerrado Member

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    Thanks. Im totally new to the "ferrules" world, and I know they included spares with my Titan package.... Any links, pics or tutorials on doing such "conversion"?
     

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