e3v5 not passing 189C

Discussion in 'E3D-v6 and Lite6' started by esolares, Mar 18, 2014.

  1. esolares

    esolares Member

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    Hi,

    I just got my new e3v5 hotend 3mm 0.30mm. I'm excited and can't wait to use it but I'm having an issue. I can't pass 189C

    I updated my marlin firmware to use the semitek thermistor (5). I heated it up till 280C without the fan mount and tightened it (was not able to reach 300C). I did all the bed leveling and now when I try to heat up the hotend up to 230C with the fan mount on, it will not get passed 188-189C.

    Is there something else I have to do on the firmware? or am I doing something wrong?

    Please let me know,

    Thank you,

    Edwin
     
  2. Eaglezsoar

    Eaglezsoar Administrator

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    I don't know if you have ever pid tuned your hotend but it is a good idea to do it. It helps the hotend to maintain
    more stable temperatures. Rather than trying to explain it here use this link: http://www.soliwiki.com/PID_tuning
     
  3. Josh

    Josh Administrator
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    Hi Edwin,

    Everything sounds fine in terms of your thermistor calibration. The other possible cause for this would be a faulty heater cartridge. Can you disconnect it from your board and measure the resistance?

    You should see something in the region of 4Ohms.

    Let me know how you get on!

    Josh
     
  4. esolares

    esolares Member

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    Hi I set up my reader to 200ohm which is the lowest and read between 3.6-3.8 ohms. if it's supposed to be 4 ohms then it appears to be good.

    Also I noticed when I switch the fan from 12v to 5v I can reach 200C and when I change the fan to 3.3V I am able to reach at least 230C.

    Please let me know what you think.

    Thank you,

    Edwin
     
  5. esolares

    esolares Member

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    I tried this and with the fan at 12V i was able to get to 195C but nothing higher than that, after hitting 195C it just goes between 194C and 195C. Also, as it approached 195C it looked like it was reaching a horizontal assymptote and was much slower to climb to the last 8 degrees or so. The only way I've been able to reach 280C is by not having the fan and to reach 230C i had the at 3.3V (this is prior to the pid autotuning).

    I tried the following gcode:
    M303 S250 C5

    and had the following out:

    >>>M303 S250 C5
    SENDING:M303 S250 C5
    PID Autotune start
    PID Autotune failed! timeout

    Thanks,

    Edwin
     
  6. elmoret

    elmoret Administrator

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    Can you post a picture of your setup?
     
  7. Sanjay

    Sanjay Administrator
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    esolares, what power supply are you running? Can you verify these temps with anything else?
     
  8. esolares

    esolares Member

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    i have an antec earthwatts 500. each 12V rail has 24amps going through it and a max of 480Watts on the 12V. i have tried 10ohm resistors on each 3.3V and 5V. The fan on the the 3.3V was a horrible idea. It did allow me to get higher temps but at the same time it started melting everything above it.

    I cannot verify temps with anything else.

    Here are my thermistor settings. I have the semitek that came with the e3dv5
    //===========================================================================
    //=============================Thermal Settings ============================
    //===========================================================================
    //
    //--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
    //
    //// Temperature sensor settings:
    // -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
    // -1 is thermocouple with AD595
    // 0 is not used
    // 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
    // 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
    // 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
    // 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
    // 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (4.7k pullup)
    // 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
    // 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
    // 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
    // 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
    // 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
    //
    // 1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k
    // (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
    // 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
    // 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
    // 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (1k pullup)

    #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5
    #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
    #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
    #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 6

    // Actual temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success
    #define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 10 // (seconds)
    #define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 3 // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one
    #define TEMP_WINDOW 1 // (degC) Window around target to start the recidency timer x degC early.

    here are the images of what resulted from hooking up the fan to 3.3V

    here is a link to the images:
    https://www.dropbox.com/sc/jonzhwuyz5er3ft/Dj64wmhDrR

    update# so while trying to open the thing up the 0.40mm nozzle broke. so frustrating how nothing seems to be working... luckily for me i had ordered replacement nozzles and will be attaching a 0.35mm nozzle instead now. also i will try wrapping the resistor in aluminum to see if that will help get the heat up to where it needs to be.
     
  9. elmoret

    elmoret Administrator

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    Dropbox link doesn't work.
     
  10. esolares

    esolares Member

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    sorry about that. I went ahead and fixed the link.
     
  11. esolares

    esolares Member

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    ok. Looks like i figured out what's wrong. I did a few things. after I broke off the 0.40mm nozzle i placed a 0.35mm nozzle but also wrapped the resistor in aluminum foil. I also made sure the screw that tightens the resistor end was on the up side instead of pointing downwards. I also accidently ruined a bit of the threads on the piece that joins the block and the aluminum heatsink so i was not able to screw it down all the way leaving some space inbetween the heatblock and the aluminum fins. i also wrapped the heatblock in a single piece of aluminum and then wrapped it with kapton tape. this seemed to do the trick. it's laying down several layers now and is extruding like a champ. I just hope i can keep this up so I can print a new greg wades extruder because the current one is warped severly...

    thanks

    Edwin
     
  12. Josh

    Josh Administrator
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    Hi Edwin,

    So from the photos you posted in the Dropbox folder - it seems like you may have got the heater-block right up at the top of the heat-break. I think I can make out rather too much of the nozzle, but can't quite see from the angle.

    This would explain why your heatsink was getting very hot when you turned the fan off, and why so much heat was getting lost when your fan was running.

    Can you please send me a photo of the business end of your hotend - we would like to be able to see your heatbreak and the gap between your heater block and the heatsink..

    Josh
     
  13. esolares

    esolares Member

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    Hi

    Yeah after jamming the small threaded part into the heatsink... I tried printing and it worked! Just like you described. I was able to print small parts last night but now when I print elongated parts they warp and seperate on the ends and start to point upwards...

    I also attached a picture of my broken 0.40mm nozzle that I had to take out of the heatblock (without damaging the heatblock thankfully). I was able to mostly print a new fan mount, because the original one had started to melt on the heatsink.... and some belt tensioners.

    https://www.dropbox.com/sc/0ouumjfzgdlpobj/LQr_b5FWw1

    Thank you,

    Edwin
     
  14. Josh

    Josh Administrator
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    Hi Edwin,

    It looks like the configuration in the latest set of photos you have uploaded is now different, so I am not going to be able to tell you what was wrong before.

    What I can tell you, is that the latest photograph shows the heat-break installed the wrong-way up. The shorter length of threaded heatbreak goes into the heater block, and the longer end into the heatsink.

    I would advise you start again with the installation, carefully following the documentation on website. You can find the documents here: http://e3d-online.com/Documentation

    Many thanks,
    Josh
     
  15. esolares

    esolares Member

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    I read the picture/ text manual and the block was touching the heatsink. Turns out that was the problem. I rethreaded the parts and installed them again and made sure it was no longer touching. works great now. only issue is switching between pla and abs.

    I ordered a second e3d for that, because it appears as some abs gets stuck inside and slowly comes out while I print pla.

    Thanks for you help,

    Edwin
     
  16. Josh

    Josh Administrator
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    Hi Edwin!

    Glad that everything is now working for you - if you need any more help just let us know! :)

    Josh
     

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