Ender 3 hemera

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Supermario, Dec 18, 2019.

  1. Supermario

    Supermario Member

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    Hi there,

    Was anyone able to get the hemera to work properly on the ender 3 with skr e3 mini v1. 2?

    Cura profiles?
    Proper firmware with bl touch?
    Acrually printing properly as mine even stops extruding mid printing.
     
    Carlos Schlottfeldt likes this.
  2. Eviltoy

    Eviltoy Well-Known Member

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    Yup I have it running. I can probably share my firmware with you. it is amazeballs just got it dialed in and its perfect. What I will say however that I had to tweak flow on materials I usually print but I put that down to going from bowden to direct
     
  3. ouweRammer

    ouweRammer New Member

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    Great that you get 'perfect' results. Can you share your printer profile settings? I'm getting horrible results.
     
  4. Eviltoy

    Eviltoy Well-Known Member

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    Sure what settings would you like to know exactly
     
  5. Grinmaul

    Grinmaul Member

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    If i was asking, i would be hopeful you are using cura 4.4 and be asking for an export of your profile for the printer and filament, that would have all the retraction, jerk, and what have you settings in it.
     
  6. Eviltoy

    Eviltoy Well-Known Member

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    unfortunately not I had endless issues with cura once I switched to prusaslicer my life has been a treat
     
  7. Grinmaul

    Grinmaul Member

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    I would love to try prusaslicer again, had a lot of problems, but i think i would miss tree supports to much.

    could you share your prusaslicer profiles? filament and machine ones?
     
  8. MarkusSchmidt

    MarkusSchmidt Member

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    Hello

    I Have Problem with my hemera Motor I make every Connection Form my printer. Than I tried To Print something than I heard a cracking noise from the motor, so dissassabled the hemera and tried To Move the Gear. But the Gear won't Move in any direction. I am tried my best To find a solution but nothing helped so maybe you have an Idea whats wrong. I use the creality 1.1.5 Board and an bltouch.
    I am Happy To hear from you.
     
  9. Daniel Rock

    Daniel Rock Well-Known Member
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    Could you link through some images or video's of the issue you are having?
     
  10. macminoz

    macminoz Member

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    I'm actually in the same situation...I've tried to loose the wheel and now the cracking is gone but I don't know how many times I disassembled because filament split into the gears...I'm so frustrated!
     
  11. Daniel Rock

    Daniel Rock Well-Known Member
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    Again some images or videos of the printer behaviour would help troubleshoot your issues.
     
  12. Eviltoy

    Eviltoy Well-Known Member

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    I actually didnt do much from the default settings. I have linear advance enabled so I disabled wipe.
    Extrusion width 0.45.
    Extrusion multiplier 0.95
    Retraction 0.8mm

    I noted I need to print cooler with the hemera so for PLA I print at 190 with a 60 degree bed
    Petg 220 with an 80 degree bed (I had to increase retraction to 1mm for petg otherwise I ended up making wigs)

    For tree supports I use meshmixer and it has been working well for me. I don't understand what happened to cura with the latest update. I used to have great prints then I updated to the latest and all of a sudden banding. Ported similar settings to prusaslicer and clean prints.

    I hope this info helps. If not let me know how it goes and send pics then I can help further. I spent quite some time upgrading the ender to the hemera. I completed 5 upgrades so far and they are all running well with the settings I listed above.
     
  13. Eviltoy

    Eviltoy Well-Known Member

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    What are you printing? PLA? What are your retraction settings. I heard a crack followed by a clog because my retracts were too ambitious for pla. since I made my retracts 0.8 for pla I have had 0 issues
     
  14. Carlos Schlottfeldt

    Carlos Schlottfeldt New Member

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    Using standard Cura profile, with retraction settings in 1mm, but gonna try 0.35 as suggested by others. Inicially I got alot of overheating for using 940mA in E0current settings. When I used 750 it worked fine. But I am getting alot of clicking sounds in retractions.
     
  15. Daniel Seah

    Daniel Seah Member

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    Hi there,
    Yes, i had the same setup as yours. Been struggling for about a week or so and finally have it solved.

    Marlin 2.01
    Vref setting, on your LCD, go to TMC driver, set to 840
    E-step 409

    Cura
    Retraction 1
    Distance 20
    Speed 35

    Im using SainSamrt 95A TPU
    Temp 215

    Have been printing good so far.

    Cheers
     
  16. MarkusSchmidt

    MarkusSchmidt Member

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    I found a solution for the motor I only switched the motor connecter and now the motor works fine. But I have a different Problem my 3D printed parts have this wired brown parts I think this comes from a to high temperature. But do you have recomended printing temperature for the Hemera with PLA?

    Photos:
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/rLgJf28iwBqoLdQn7
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/GXmQe6wNRc2EiYce8

    PS: I can't upload pictures because every time I tried to upload a picture the website said a problem occured.
     
  17. Daniel Rock

    Daniel Rock Well-Known Member
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    205 for PLA, it would be better to run a temperature calibration tower, as every filament manufacturer requires slightly different settings.
     
  18. MarkusSchmidt

    MarkusSchmidt Member

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    Hello I tried to test the temperature but I didn't see any major improvments. Here you can see my results with the ender 3 and the hemera. Maybe you have a cura profile that improves the quality.

    Photos:
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/93Hed345qgoHrXUM8
     
  19. Daniel Rock

    Daniel Rock Well-Known Member
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    Unfortunately, we do not have any slicer profiles available.
     
  20. The_Slunk

    The_Slunk Member

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    Old thread, but I've been doing A LOT of testing with my hemera on the SKR mini E3. I've tried 1/4, 1/8, and 1/16 microstepping, all on stealthchop as well as spreadcycle and with and without TL smoothers, and the only setting that did not display visual lines on the prints was 1/8 microstepping in both stealthchop and spreadcycle. I highly recommend turning the extruder microstepping to 1/8, my steps/mm were perfect at 198 but yours may vary. I can upload a picture of each of my test results if you'd like. The differences are pretty drastic.
     
    #20 The_Slunk, May 5, 2020
    Last edited: May 5, 2020

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