Filament getting stuck after 5-6 minutes of printing

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by Drip, May 15, 2016.

  1. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    I assume it's PLA, so you can bake the filament for a couple of hours in a very low oven, about 60C, but do be careful not to reach the glass temperature (Tg) of the filament as this will cause distortion; Tg is around 70C for PLA. Most filaments will recover with this technique but the best cure is storing in a sealed container with a desiccant. Desiccants need to be changed regularly as they become saturated but can be restored by baking; some desiccants change colour when they become ineffective and change back when restored.

    It is unlikely that this is the cause of your problem and I would first try clearing the nozzle. First heat your hotend to the normal temperature and push filament through by hand, then completely withdraw it. Next, drop the temperature to the minimum for that filament and take a length of filament and push it quickly into the hotend and immediately withdraw it and cut that end off; repeat a few rimes with the fresh piece of filament. What happens is that the cool filament does not have time to fully melt so any contaminants in the hotend stick to the filament and are withdrawn. You can buy cleaning filament that is used in this way. If this does not work check your hotend build, in particular the length of the PTFE tube, because if this is too short you will create a void near the head that will collect soft filament on retraction and will grab the filament as it is fed through, causing a jam.
     
    #21 mike01hu, May 23, 2016
    Last edited: May 23, 2016
    Alex9779 likes this.
  2. Drip

    Drip Member

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    Ok so it's not perfect.

    Two very important things to note here.
    1.) The feeder did not 'flick' back, not once.
    2.) the color is different... yes new fillament.....

    below was printed with a 0.4 nozzle, at 0.35 fist layer and 0.3 for the rest

    Temp extruder at 200 throughout and heat bed at 90, extruder multiplier set to 1.1 and an infill of 10%.

    I'll drop the temp to 190 and reprint
    5mm cubes new fillament.jpg
     
    #22 Drip, May 23, 2016
    Last edited: May 23, 2016
  3. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Sorry but this all doesnt fit goeter... .04 nozzle? If thats a typo and you meant 0.4 then 0.35 as layers is too much IMHO. The general rule is max 80% layer height of nozzle size...
    And why is your multiplier so high? PLA normally has 0.9 to 0.95 so less than 1...
     
  4. Drip

    Drip Member

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    thanks mate, I fixed the type, it's just where I ended up after weeks of trouble shooting.

    I'll bring the multiplier down to 0.95 and back to my preferred (novice) layer height of 0.2
     
  5. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    That is a good starting point... With this starting points I normally get acceptable results...
     
  6. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    Just one more point: How many perimeters have you set? It looks like only 1 which is asking a lot for the layer height you have set; this causes reheating of the perimeter with the infill and will create problems similar to what you have shown. But, take Alex's advice and go back to defaults for that filament and be less ambitious with the layer height; you will see that many of us print at between 0.1mm and 0.2mm for the 0.4mm nozzle to get better quality if not speed. What you have here is a small object, so finer layers will look much better.
     
  7. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    80% of 0.4 is 0.32, so my maximum for the 0.4 nozzle I ever tried is 0.3mm. If I want print higher layer heights then I use a bigger nozzle...
     
  8. Chase.Wichert

    Chase.Wichert Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I have been getting good prints at .3mm with a .4 nozzle, HOWEVER, I wouldn't do it on big parts for ABS, since ABS layers don't adhere as well as some others, the layers will warp and split apart. I just did this and had cracks in several areas, I just used acetone and little pieces of polycarbonate sheet and glue it back together, but it doesn't need to be pretty, just usable.
     
  9. Drip

    Drip Member

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    G'day all,
    Here is tonight print, not to bad if you don't consider the top block.

    Well once I get the fillament to stick to the glass bed. O boy one more obstacle.... I've even tried hair spray but the fillement curls back and just does not stick, new issues. grrrrr

    Here we go, I can live with it after all the hassles for now.
    FullSizeRender.jpg
     
  10. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Some points:
    • Looks you're over extruding, calibrate your E steps or reduce your flow rate
    • How many top surfaces did you print? Looks like on on very low infill...
    • What speed is that printed?
     
  11. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    What filament is this? A picture of the bottom will help too.
     
  12. Drip

    Drip Member

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    Hi guys,
    Been away for a few days,
    Ok so it seem the white filament was the problem as the new gray one was better, yet the issue continued so I bough another new spool from a different manufacturer and wow now it's going smooth and I can print again. Though not directly on the glass bed yet, I'm on tape and it's working well so for now I'm happy.
    Thanks for all the comments and assistance, they all ticked or did not tick a box and helped me fix the issue.
    Again thanks you!
     

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