SOLVED First layer Z axis

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by Duncan Chivers, Jul 12, 2016.

  1. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    Hi All,

    I am having major issues trying to get the first layer to adhere properly. I can see what the problem is, but I don't know how to fix it!

    I've carried out the z axis calibration detailed in the wiki, but I can still see that when it prints the nozzle if a few mm too far from the bed, so I just get spaghetti that barely touches the bed.

    I have the z offset currently set to 0.1 and it seems to make no difference at all.

    So far the only thing I've successfully printed is a benchy, which was pretty much the first print. From then it just won't play ball!

    Any suggestions at all would be appreciated.
     
  2. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    A positive value moves the bed away from the nozzle...
     
  3. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    I can't get it to go any lower than 0 using the front panel, is there a better method using octoprint that you can point me in the direction of?
     
  4. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Strange with the 'Bed Z' in Tune or Motion menu I can go negative too.
    Which firmware version are you using?
     
    #4 Alex9779, Jul 12, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2016
  5. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    Hmm, not sure off the top of my head, I haven't changed it since receiving the device. I'll check later when I'm back.

    Is there a particular version that folks are using?

    I also should have mentioned earlier, it's a Pro v1.1 that was pre-assembled.
     
  6. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    That option I talk a about is in RC6. I assume you have an earlier version maybe RC4. I recommend to update the firmware...
     
  7. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    Excellent, I'll have a look.
     
  8. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    Ok, so definitely RC4. I've obviously not updated the firmware before, so it seems that the easiest way is using the plugin for OctoPrint? - I have just installed it, and it's now showing as expected in the settings menu after a restart. I've downloaded the latest hex file from github too.
    My next question is can I just go ahead and connect the laptop to the board and attempt to update from the plugin, or do I first need avrdude installed as is described in some other posts? I've been reading about the various methods that are available, and I'm confused about the different components that are necessary in each scenario.

    Is there a definitive step-by-step?
     
  9. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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  10. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    Perfect, thanks. I can only see one place to connect to the Rumba via USB, which is where the pi is currently connected - is that the port I should be using or is there another that I'm missing? (looks like mini-USB?)
     
  11. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    Hmm, well that's what I went ahead and did - followed instructions to the letter, but 0 bytes uploaded ... :(
     
  12. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Which instructions exactly? Windows, Mac, Linux, RPi?
     
  13. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    Morning!, thanks for helping.

    Windows - stranger things are happening now though, the only light on the rumba is power, with the occasional flash of tx.
    The LCD seems happy, firing up and showing that it's on RC4, and then says BigBox Hybrid Ready, however all of the axes are now set to zero.

    I've tried another upload from Xloader, but now it's in a state where it just says uploading, and it has done for nearly half an hour. Is there a safe way to cancel Xloader without killing the board?
     
  14. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    You did install the drivers and you board is recognized in the device manager without and exclamation mark or something?
     
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  15. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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  16. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    That's the weird thing, the laptop can see the board with no problems, it shows up happily in device manager.
    Just to double check, the baud rate should be 115200, yes?
     
  17. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    I wrote the guide by doing the steps my self so it is working the way I described. I did it multiple times so yes the BAUD rate is correct...

    Did you try flashing from your laptop too?
     
  18. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    Yes, just, and now bizarrely (and very happily), it seems to have worked! - it restarted and showed RC6, and now says BigBox Hybrid P ready at eh bottom of the LCD. Phew!

    I have no idea what I was doing wrong, but it must have been me!

    So one more question now, given that all the offsets seem to have reset, can you point me to the steps that I need to go through to set them back up? - is it similar to the one I had to do originally for Z? Sorry if this sounds basic, but mine was a pre-assembled unit (for speed, rather than lack of ability!), so it's not something I've done before.

    Thanks for your help with this.
     
  19. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Unfortunately no... The menus changed a little compared to RC4 and the build manual is not updated yet I think and I didn't try it myself.
     
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  20. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    No worries, thanks.
     

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