First print started good, then went boobs up!

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by martin baird, Oct 20, 2016.

  1. martin baird

    martin baird Member

    Aug 5, 2016
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    Hi Guys!

    After some nagging from my Son to get cracking with his printer, I got to with it today! I set everything up, and set it away to do the test print!

    Now I am using PLA at a setting of 210 degrees, with the bed at 60 degrees, It started REALLY WELL and almost completed the print, and in a very nice quality I may add! But then it broke away from the bed and that was an end to that!

    Now I tried again and it just printed a mess and successive prints got worse? Each print fails to bond to the bed? I have tried variating the temp of the head to 220, 230, 240 and the bed to 65,70,75,80,85,90 etc but each time it comes adrift from the heat bed?

    I have spend all day tinkering, but cant beat the first print for quality, even with the same settings?

    Does anyone have any feedback on temps for bed and heads please? It's starting to get annoying now! 9 hours straight of trying to get it sorted!


  2. Bluemalu

    Bluemalu Well-Known Member

    Mar 17, 2014
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    Many methods are used to keep the print sticking. When I had a glass bed I used blue masking tape and 60 degrees for PLA.

    Ensure the 1st layer is well squashed down (either lower starting height or increased extrusion width).

    Last point that comes to mind is, your not switching the bed off after the 1st layer is done. I lost a print due to a mistake I made in my S3D configuration by switching off the bed.
  3. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

    Apr 22, 2014
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    To answer your question several things need to be known, such as printer version, firmware version, slicer etc. But, to start with, for PLA, a bed temperature of around 50C is OK and 210C for the nozzle. The first layer is critical and there are several variables that determine success; firstly the bed must be level and the Z offset correctly set as per the wiki and be absolutely clean, of course you can use bed preparation coatings such as painters tape etc. On glass I use a 5:1 mix of water to PVA wood glue painted onto the glass, then, for slicing, you should start with the layer height for the first layer to be around 80% of the set layer height; I leave the first layer width at 100%. It is important to have no cooling fan for the first few layers, then increase it in steps to 60% or more as the print progresses. After printing is complete, wait for the bed to cool by about 20C before carefully lifting the model from the bed. The PVA mix can be cleaned off the bed with methylated spirit (ethyl alcohol).

    There are several calibration steps you need to take later to improve print quality and you will find quite a large variation in results due to filament colour and brand for the same type of filament, which is why most people print test pieces to check layer quality, dimensional accuracy and so on, then keep notes of these or define individual slicer profiles for those filaments.

    My answer is not the total answer and applies to PLA but will hopefully give you a starting point.
  4. Kanedias

    Kanedias Well-Known Member

    Sep 12, 2015
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    Your first settings are the same as I use for PLA. For bed adhesion I use insette hairspray.

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