I don't know if anyone else has tried this, but after fitting the fibreglass sleeving, I fixed my thermistor into the hole in the heat block with Holt's Gun Gum exhaust putty. It only needs a small amount, and after fitting the thermistor in place, the gun gum can be cured very quickly by using a hot-air gun. The end result protects and insulates the fragile thermistor leads, and should withstand high temperatures (up to 700°C, which should be enough!) The only problem is that a can of the stuff costs £3.99 and contains enough for a hundred or so hotends! I had some handy from a vehicle repair, but it could be worth E3D buying a can and selling off small amounts in polybags. Please note that I also ground off some of the edge of the washer to give the thermistor leads a bit more clearance.
Thanks, I'll try that. for some reason I keep breaking those damn legs. I wish someone would explain how to use that thick fiberglass wire.
I saw this post, and decided it to try it on my second thermistor, after destroying the first. I purchased some Blue Magic Quick steel since I could not find the stuff that you use in the UK, and it worked great. Thank you for the tip.
I didn't use the glass-fibre covered wire supplied with the V6, After trying to strip off the outer layers in vain, I simply crimped and soldered the legs after passing them through the supplied sleeving. I have toyed with the idea of some form of cement to secure the thermistor in place but in the V6 Design it seems a little superfluous, and would make replacing the thermistor significantly more difficult to replace when it breaks!
