then Ill add a vote that "mirrored" should be called "mirrored - standard build" or something, I assumed mirrored was a non standard build, not the setup straight from the build guide/wiki. At least that explains it, sorry for being an idiot and not realising!
You are right and wrong... Standard is left main, right second, that is how you build it if you follow the guide... Mirrored is non-standard...
@Pierce please verify your setup, using a wrong firmware can crash your printhead against the frame because of the different limits set in the firmware.
First print with your fw and profile @Alex9779. Also your bracket. Worked perfect and the damper does its job mm now. The bracket looks better than the original. Second print. Both prints are my first ones ever with anything other than PLA. Colorfabb XT. Used your profiles for everything. 0,4 nozzle, 0,2 layer. Medium / medium for the bracket and medium / fast for Benchy. I had to set X offset from 35 to 0 because of the bug. I have my 0,4 nozzle right. (This is not the supplied Benchy gcode)
Looking good @Stian Indal Haugseth . The second photo - showing nice vertical walls with lots of layers very clearly - is the opportunity for a discussion. I think we all get those horizontal lines which appear every 5-15mm. I can also see them in the original parts of my BB from the print farm! Question is, what causes them? These past weeks I've been looking at prints from various 3d printers (particularly ultimakers, makerbots and sharebots!) and they do NOT have them. Though to be fair most UM prints I see are at a very low layer height where they'd show up less. Do those lines come from the Z? Or from the X and Y? Or from the nozzle? Or.... ??? If I only knew, I'd do something about it!!
I just upgraded to the Hybrid Pro with the corresponding RC6 BigBox3D Hybrid Pro firmware and mine is doing the exact same thing. I just forgot that I tried to start a print and it just cycled the temp up and down for over 10 minutes.
In the official firmware this does not exists, in mine I activated the feature... http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning But you need access to the terminal either using a host pC connected via USB or with OctoPrint. If you have OctoPrint then there is also a plugin that can do it...
I used the terminal and ran through the PID calibration and it is much faster now coming up to temp and actually does get there. Thank you!!
@Alex9779 , I've been using your profile for Dual Hybrid for a month now and I'm getting really good results. With the latest upgrade some times at the beginning of the print the carriage stops slightly on the right from the Ooze Wiper & Dump Bucket. A part from that (which can be fixed by turning the printer off and on again) I'm very happy with it. Thank you.
@6d 61 72 63 6f nice. But you describe a very strange issues. So you say that you start a print after one has finished and then whole head is too far to the right side and if you restart the printer the same file works fine?
I have also seen this bumping, and it because of a bug I think. It keeps track of the position, but has forgotten that it's working with T1 (and not T0), but think it's a T0, so crashes in the back. Preventable, when changing first to T0 (and extrude 5mm, which will probably extrude null, cold end prevention) and than auto-home. This is on the official version the case, as I have not yet switched to Alex's version. (but soon, very soon, too much going on at the same time)
But I took care of that switching back to T0 at then end of every print... I'll check again... That was true intention of all the scripts to switch the printer back to a defined state as up to RC6 Marlin allows homing with T1 too. This has changed for later versions so...
Well there are no later version published yet. Last night RC7 was tagged. I am in the process of testing and updating. But I already found something with the MBL branches.